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The start of Commie Pinkos.
Commie Pinkos is a great beginners route - good climbing with plenty of protection.
P1. Climb a medium sized flake to a face that leads up to a decent belay stance. There is an old, gnarled juniper tree next to the belay with rappel slings wrapped around it. The climbing is easy and straight forward.
P2. Continue up from the belay stance to the summit ridge above. The climbing is generally easier the farther right you stay. The route can be a little confusing at the top – stay to the right of a small gully splitting the top of the crag and belay on a ledge left of a big juniper tree.
To descend, pick up the trail at the top of the cliff and hike down and left, through the rocky gully to the left of the crag.
Located on the far left side of the crag (hence the name – it’s as far left as you can get…). Further to the left, the crag turns into a broken talus slope. Start near the uppermost of two large pine trees near the base of the wall.
Standard trad rack.
Looking down the wall from Commie Pinkos. Good sh...
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jun 12, 2011
Went up this today. P2 is a great beginner lead ... at least the way we did it which seemed very reasonable.
By Howard Snell
From: Belen, New Mexico
Jun 15, 2011
Where did you end your 1st pitch? We stopped at a small, slightly cramped alcove above gnarly's juniper. I think Larry & Bill D. belayed from the Juniper.