|g. V3 - Middle Earth
Begin fifty feet left of Balrog. Head up a weakness (same start as Country Roads, which continues through the roof via a crack), then traverse right for 30 feet and very little gear to another weakness in the roof. Past the roof here and up to an anchor.
Feb 19, 2008
Went up on this September '77. Made mistake Blue Book cautioned against: "Despite bravado suggested by name, it's wise to think this through before attacking." I bolted over first roof and onto the face...onto the face...no hand holds. "Eyyagghhh!" 15-footer onto ancient pin. Ass dangling just above an angular boulder. "Trusty rusty" indeed. I haven't been back.
|By Tim Schafstall|
From: Newark, DE
Oct 2, 2008
There really is not much to this climb, but the crux is about 5 moves and really fun. There is a short vertical section to a long, easy, unprotected traverse, then the fun begins.
|By Kalil Oldham|
From: Brooklyn, NY
Sep 15, 2013
Committing through the crux. 75 or 80 feet at most.