North Face - Comici
||Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1475', Grade IV
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Emilio Comici, G.Dimai, A.Dimai 12.-14.August 1933|
|Page Views: ||5,066|
|Submitted By: ||BenL on Jul 9, 2008|
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Looking at climbers on the Hasse-Brandler route fr...
Everything on this route is good! It's just a mega classic steep climb, with no badly loose sections.
On the Ringband, traverse on the right and get to the summit via the Normalweg(4th class).
Long thought to be an impossible wall, Comici proved everyone wrong.
The uber-classic of the thirties - the most famous 6-route.
Comici went back in 1937 and bagged the first solo ascend of the route.
You can pull on gear through all the cruxes. Many pitons on the lower steep part of the climb.
A great climb!
The crux pitch, if freeclimbed, is the first hard one and the last pitch of the difficulties.
Finding the route is fairly easy.
It more or less follows a black strike and then a big dihedral on the right side of the North Face.
Many Pitons, most of them are pretty bad. Bring a full set of cams, add some medium and small stuff and a set of nuts. If you are experienced with pegs, bring some in order to replace the rusty old ones.
Feb 15, 2012
the best climb we've done in the Dolomites & one of the best lines we've done anywhere. what a proud line up a gorgeous face!
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 21, 2014
I took my first-ever leader fall on the Comici in early August 1964. Wrecked my belayer and retreated.