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SOB Gully (skier's left side)
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Comic Relief T 
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Dragon's Tooth, The T 
Escape Artist T 
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Comic Relief 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 950', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Webster & Dreiman
Page Views: 15,865
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Jan 1, 2001

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Comic Relief.

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Description 

Comic Relief is an excellent introduction to 5.10 climbing in the Black, with clean rock, good pro, easy routefinding, and a relatively short day. The climb stays in the shade until early afternoon, so it's a good choice for hot weather. This is one of the more popular routes in the canyon. It is easier, shorter, and better protected than Journey Home.

Descend SOB gully to a white, polished slabby area under the third prominent buttress on your left. Look for a prominent left-angling feature low down (the "Vector Traverse" on Escape Artist) and a beautiful, thin, curving crack to the right of this. Head up the slab to a worn path leading to a 100 foot shoulder of broken rock. Scramble (rope?) 4th and easy 5th Class up and right to a large block/flake and the bottom of the route. All pitch lengths are approximates, and like many routes here, optional belay points may be used.

Pitch 1 (75'): Begin in a nice 5.9- corner which leads to the base of the splitter crack. Variation: The thin tips crack to the right (with a little bush in it) is hard 5.10, but somewhat dirty. Belay at the base of the splitter (or keep going - you can combine these 2 pitches).

Pitch 2 (100'): Climb the splitter (excellent 5.10b, RPs at start) to a stance and belay (extra thin hands pro).

Pitch 3 (140'): Climb a left-facing corner, and move right where it ends. Climb the short wall above, or move around right to the base of a slab (optional belay at some blocks). Climb the slab (5.7), and a second short slabby/corner (5.8), to the base of an overhanging, black corner, and belay (good anchors, a little sloping stance though).

Pitch 4 (120'): Traverse straight left, to a 5.9 hand crack groove which leads to a nice ledge. Variation: Climb the strenuous "Black Corner" above (5.10), then hand traverse straight left (5.6) to the belay ledge (optional 4" cam to protect the 2nd). Note that if you used the optional belay on pitch 3, you can climb the slab and traverse left to below the 5.9 groove and belay in one pitch.

Pitch 5 (120'): Several options. Climb up and right to a thin crack at a bulge, slightly sporty 5.9 or easy 5.10; or up, then left around the outside corner to join Escape Artist, and onto a steep pegmatite wall with a crack (5.9 or so) which leads to the large, sloping shelf at the "Lightening Bolt" crack, and belay below the prominent corner.

Pitch 6 (85'): Climb the grungy-looking corner with a precarious block (5.9+ if dry) to a short pegmatite section, and a belay ledge on the right. This pitch climbs better than it looks. Variation: Climb the striking lightening bolt crack (5.11- or so) on the overhanging right wall, sharp, strenuous, but well protected with large wired nuts to 2" cams. Variation 2: The runout arete left of the corner is 5.8, dirty and best ignored.

Pitches 7-8 (300' or more): Climb the lower angle, but at times runout, wall above (some 5.6) to the top of the summit ridge.

Go to the left-most set of rap anchors, just over the edge, and above a big chockstone. A single 60m rope will take you down to a rubble ledge system. Ascend the obvious and loose gully to the north- do not take the gully to the right (east)- and hit a vague trail back to the campground. This is the "standard exit".

With the black corner and the lightning bolt cracks, the climb is a more sustained challenge. If you combine P1 & P2 and simul-climb the upper wall, the route goes fast in about 6 pitches. Watch out if you are climbing below another party, since stuff on the exit wall is loose, and a rope could easily dislodge something big.

Protection 

Double set wires to 3" cams, one set RPs, a 3.5" piece. A single 60m rope will get you off the top of the summit ridge. Helmet.


Photos of Comic Relief Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
An awesome spot above the Black, looking down the SOB Gully (to left).  You can see the Comic Relief Buttress in the sun.  The Lightning Bolt Crack, in the dark orange dihedral, is near the top of the buttress (far left-center).
An awesome spot above the Black, looking down the ...
Traversing to the beelay after the Black Corner
Traversing to the beelay after the Black Corner
Lightning bolt crack.
Lightning bolt crack.
Starting up P3.  Just above the crux pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Starting up P3. Just above the crux pitch.
06/24/2004. Crew approaching the top of P2 on Comic Relief.
06/24/2004. Crew approaching the top of P2 on Comi...
Climbers high on Comic Relief, May 20, 2009.
Climbers high on Comic Relief, May 20, 2009.
On the black left facing P6 corner. This pitch looks like junk, but it's good and hard. The left wall is smooth (my foot's on the only big hold), so you're forced to face into the steep corner. There's one particularly hard move about 2/3 up. After this some fun and safe moderate pegmatite leads up and then right to the summit slabs. <br /> <br />Photo by Luke Clarke.
On the black left facing P6 corner. This pitch loo...
Starting up P1. 5.8 or maybe easy 9. <br /> <br />Photo by Luke Clarke.
Starting up P1. 5.8 or maybe easy 9. Photo by Luk...
Climbers on COMIC, 9-28-08.
BETA PHOTO: Climbers on COMIC, 9-28-08.
Starting up P2, 10a? There's a medium hard move to start that gets you to this stance, and then another harder move to another stance. Technical, but lower angle than the sustained 9 above.
Starting up P2, 10a? There's a medium hard move to...
P4 traverse above the Black Corner option.
P4 traverse above the Black Corner option.
The stance after the crux. The piece at Luke's feet is a big brass that well protects the crux move.
The stance after the crux. The piece at Luke's fee...
At the crux move of P5.
At the crux move of P5.
There's a hard move here past a closed off section of the crack, then the climbing remains hard thin hands as the crack leans to the left.
There's a hard move here past a closed off section...
Luke climbing the summit slabs. 1+ pitches  or simulclimbing.
Luke climbing the summit slabs. 1+ pitches or sim...
Starting up P3 5.7 or 8? The guidebook said this wandering pitch was 5.5 and 5.7 (or 5.7 then 5.5?), but there were several hard sections. We ran the pitch (with a 70m rope) all the way to the end of the leftward "hike" from the base of the Black Dihedral to the base of the right facing corner. <br /> <br />Photo by Luke Clarke.
Starting up P3 5.7 or 8? The guidebook said this w...
Escape Artist Buttress from RUSSIAN ARETE. Climbers on COMIC.
BETA PHOTO: Escape Artist Buttress from RUSSIAN ARETE. Climber...
Starting up the aesthetic P4 9 pitch. I thought I'd stem my way up this, but this "stem" to a ledge on the left was my last. <br /> <br />Photo by Luke Clarke.
Starting up the aesthetic P4 9 pitch. I thought I'...
Jeff Bevan belaying on "lightning bolt ledge".
Jeff Bevan belaying on "lightning bolt ledge&...
A 5.10+ variation to the 1st pitch of Comic Relief done in the early eighties (83 or 84 I think). Note the Whillans "nut buster" and Vibram soled Vasque Ascenders. This Variation starts 15 to 20 feet to the right of the regular start. This is a Rincon quality crack well worth the small wires required. You can see the classic finger crack of the second pitch.
A 5.10+ variation to the 1st pitch of Comic Relief...
Lindsay having no problem running it out the crux pitch!
Lindsay having no problem running it out the crux ...
Charles nearing the end of the crux splitter on Comic Relief.  Photo taken by Bernard Vachon from the first belay of Escape Artist.
Charles nearing the end of the crux splitter on Co...
Just above the crux on P2.
Just above the crux on P2.

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Only the first 24 are shown above.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 2, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 10, 2001

Good route.
By Bryson Slothower
Nov 19, 2001
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Although meeting up with Escape Artist on p.5 is easier, the climbing on the original line is very fun and asethetic, I recommend taking the original route.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 19, 2001

Good route.
By Bryson Slothower
Feb 24, 2002
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The fifth pitch goes straight up through a short chimney section then RIGHT up a ramp to a great 5.9+ corner that leads directly to the base of the lightning bolt crack...
By Darin Lang
Jun 10, 2002

A very good climb on good rock the whole way up. The crux pitch in particular is fantastic. It seemed quite sustained at the 5.9 grade until we gained the upper slabs - definitely in a different league from Maiden Voyage.

Pay close attention to rope drag if traversing over to the 5.8 finger cracks on Escape Artist on P5. I foolishly did not, and paid the price by doing 100 lb leg presses up the finger cracks and onto the sloping ledge.The original line looks much nicer.
By piz
Oct 30, 2002

The climbing is over after the first pitch (assuming that you link one and two of course) the rest is mindless climbing. Great intro route to the canyon.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 30, 2002

Strongly disagree with Piz. If you do the Black Corner and Lightning Bolt pitches, the climbing is by no means over after pitch 2. A 3-star route in my book.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 30, 2002

I also disagree, and I didn't even do the Black Corner or Lightning Bolt variations. Thus, instead of thinking of the route as hard, I like to think of it as beautiful sustained 5.9 crack climbing the whole way (until the exit slabs), briefly interrupted by one out of character, short stiff (and thinly protected) 5.10 section.
By piz
Nov 4, 2002

I just like to see who's reading and who's not outside climbing. I am not intending to offend anyone. : ) Sorry, if that's what happened.
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
May 27, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Overall excellent. I would suggest an extra 3.5" piece if you belay below pitch 4/5 (5.9 hand crack). The belay requires this size so the leader must climb fairly high before a no. 2 camalot fits.

Near the end of pitch 6 there is a very small little overhang cave thing that is just big enough to keep two people from getting rained on as long as you are about 12 years old. Otherwise you have to like your partner a whole lot. And enjoy knees/elbows/etc jammed in your chest/legs/etc. ;-)

Slightly better than Escape Artist IMO.

The second pitch is sustained and while no single move may be 10c, the entire pitch feels about 10c to me.
By Ross Keller
From: Parker, CO
May 25, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The 1st two pitches combine nicely. The crux hand/finger crack is as good as ou'll see anywhere!

The black corner pitch is better than it looks with excellent climbing and adequate pro (10b-pg).
By Max
May 25, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The 5.10+ direct start is great and easily combines with the next pitch. Do this start, the Black Corner, and the Lightening Bolt and you have quite a bit more sustained climbing.
By Dr. Dan
From: Steamboat Springs, CO
Jun 25, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Climbed Comic Relief in amazingly good weather 6/24/04. Linked P1+P2 which is definitely the way to go. Makes for a sustained 185 ft 10+ pitch. Things to remember. Double sling at the end of P1 to reduce rope drag and listen to the beta about bringing lots of small hand and finger pieces. P1 and P2 are mostly small hands and fingers. Ran out of appropriate pro which led to a run out of about 20 feet near the top of P2 before getting a nice green cam in. The Black Corner is a worth doing. It looks blocky and easy, but is just over vertical with less than perfect jams and some awkward holds.Watch for loose blocks, rocks and a few sticker bushes on the last 2 pitches (easy 5th class unless you get lost).
By charlie
May 30, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Charlie from Winter Park here,... A great route, and fantastic intro to the Black. Highest quality rock (although a few of the ledges have loose stuff on them), takes great gear, and a cooler side of the canyon. Crux pitch felt a solid 5.10 - one can bicker over letter grades, but in the old days we just called it 5.10. And what a great pitch at that, one of the finer 5.10s I've done in a while. The upper pitches are incredibly good, too. So don't delay, go out and find a belay! Naturally, do be careful!
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 17, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great climb, although wandering. All pitches are good, even the easy summit slabs. I followed the the P2 crux (carrying a substantial pack), and the orange left facing corner, and led the other 9 something pitches and had a harder time on all the 9 parts (leading or following) than on the 10 moves. The 10 moves are just two technical very brief moves to decent stances. The 9 climbing is sustained and pumpy and somewhat dicey at the several thin hands sections.
By Lordsokol
From: Boulder, CO
May 17, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Get an early start! This route is getting popular. We left the campground at 5:30am and were first on the route. By the time we were at the second belay stance, there were two parties on our tail. We were not climbing slowly either. (We did the entire route from the first move to the summit rappel in 6 hours).

Also, even though it is rated 5.10, it seemed hard. I think that the thin hands crack on the second pitch (splitter), and the 4th pitch were definitely the cruxes. The 4th pitch openbook hands crack felt much harder than 5.9 to me. I had a harder time on this pitch than I did on the 5.10b splitter crack of pitch 2. I followed the 5.9 and lead the 5.10b.

Overall, this is a great climb with solid rock. Very enjoyable.
By david goldstein
May 25, 2006

We took most if not all of the hard variations and found this to be excellent: shady, clean, continuous and sustained (except for the easy peg at the top). Sort of cool that one could go back the next day and reclimb the route doing a quality variation on almost every pitch.

Very good route description by SL.
By Chris Perkins
From: Avon, Colorado
Aug 29, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

The second pitch is harder than 10b if you have big hands, but that goes to say with most cracks. The fourth felt harder than 5.9 also. The book is correct when it says leader needs to be solid on 5.10.
I liked Journey Home better.
By Jeff Stephens
From: Carbondale, CO
Sep 27, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great rock, great protection, great views, great comraderie.... Pulling into the 5.9+ dark dihedral on Pitch 6 (middle of pitch 5 for us) was the crux for me. It is steep, awkward, and generally swarthy. The leader faces a bad ledge fall here, but on toprope I harmlessly and repeatedly bounced off the ledge as I morphed into a dog while trying to climb this corner. I kept falling even though I was yarding on a jammed hex. The climbing is sustained, with 5 distinct sections of great jamming.

Also, I dropped a bottle of Vadge body spray somewhere on this route. If you find it, just go ahead and use it.
By dbyte
From: Carbondale, CO
Sep 29, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great route - long, interesting, & reasonable enough to be enjoyable by any ~5.10 climbers. I found the 4th pitch to be slightly harder than the 2nd. WAY more physical @ least.
By chris begue
Jun 12, 2010

Great route, that whole wall with all its variations is a unique place in such a "forbidding" canyon!! The picture of Phil Broscovick on the 10d-really 11a/b variation was taken by me. And if you want a wild variation to the last real pitch or lightning bolt pitch traverse right around to the other side or straight up the prow!!! First done by John Hulett and myself.
By blakeherrington
Sep 16, 2010

There's a three-star crack pitch that can be climbed halfway up this route, fully worth the effort for one of the best pitches around.

From the ledge atop ~p3, where the black dihedral is on the left, scramble down and right for 35' to a flat ledge on the right margin of the buttress. The pitch is obvious, and takes excellent, fingers-to-thin-hands gear. This is described in the guidebook as "Perfect Art".

After ~70' of stellar crack climbing, we beefed up the in situ anchor. The next pitch of 'Perfect Art' is described as "5.12 dynamic friction"... we demurred and rapped back down to Comic Relief.
By Ryan A. Ray
From: Keller, TX
Sep 29, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

With a 70m rope, you can link pitch 1, 2, and part of 3. We did this and ended at a decent belay at the base of an easy, left-facing, dihedral slab. It is a short slab just before you do the traverse to the base of the 5.9 flaring chimney/crack. Keep in mind that this is exactly 70m as we had absolutely no rope left. I thought I was going to have to simul the first pitch a little but never had to. For pitch 2, you can take it accross the traverse to the base of the 5.9 crack and belay there. For the belay you can use a #3 or #3.5 Camalot along with 2 bomber but very small nuts just to your left in a small seam. It eliminates the need for many large pieces of gear. I suppose you could also link the traverse and the 5.9 dihedral crack as well, but you may wind up with a little rope drag, but would cut out even another pitch. From the top of the 5.9 crack, you can either go straight up or cut out left around the corner to join excape artist and end at the sloping ledge below lightning bolt crack or the 5.9 dihedral. For a final technical pitch, take either lighning bolt or the 5.9 dihedral up to the base of the summit slabs. Run this up as far as you can for a belay, and then simul the last several hundred feet. As you near the top, cut left along a ledge and scramble up some blocky/bushy gullies to the left rap anchor (fixed slings around a block). That makes this an enjoyable 5 to 6 pitch route that goes much faster than stopping at every pitch to belay.
By DaveF
From: Durango, CO
Apr 26, 2011

Loved reading all the descriptions...very appropriate. I led all the pitches as I took my girlfriend up Oct. 2010. P.2 seemed in the 5.10+ range. After walking across the ramp in the middle somewhere, I lead the 5.9 flaring/body jam pitch to a sweet ledge below the "golden corner" pitch. This is where we caught 2 different parties: a 2-person party on Comic directly above us, and a 3-person party on Escape Artist. I led up the Golden Corner pitch to the Lightning Bolt belay and waited...and waited...and waited. Both routes are getting so popular, there's lots of traffic. We ended up climbing the dirty black corner (felt 5.10) in the dark and then the 400-500 ft. of 5.easy to the top with headlamps. Made for an exciting time. Superb route...I first climbed it 10 years earlier...it was every bit as good as I remembered. A fun exit as well. Rap down and head left up the exit gully right to your cold beers.
By 007
From: cold as it gets, CO
Dec 7, 2011

If you look up "Man" in the dictionary, it'll say... Webster... and this guy -
By b hof
From: Pueblo West, CO
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Info for variations:

The first pitch variation is excellent and checks in at about same grade as the 2nd pitch crux, the only thing is the gear is a little harder to place. From the ledge, it looks thin, but there are good locks where you need them.

The black corner is amazing and with good pro, the hand traverse is fun in its own way, but do your follower a favor and protect the traverse otherwise they could get slammed hard into the 5.9, right-facing corner if they fall.

The lightning bolt crack is splitter and is not as hard as some suggest, if you know how to jam off fingers and tight hands. The pitch starts out as big fingers and goes to tight hands and then gets to a good stance with easier climbing above. There are great edges for the feet through the hard section and takes 3 x 0.5 and 3 x 0.75 Camalots.
By Bowe Ellis
From: Taos, NM
Aug 13, 2013

IMO the 5.9 pitches are every bit like the 5.9 on the NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock. I'll just have to remind myself that a 5.11- at some sport junkie crag is pretty much a 5.9, too. This thing was fun with great cracks and a full-on adventure.

A couple additional comments for future readers:
- We never needed the 3.5" piece. I presume it's for the 4th pitch/groove, but constrictions in it allow #3 placements.
- If you end up rapping from the upper slings, you'll need to hike down the rap gully a bit. The chockstone in the gully can be downclimbed (4th class) by starting on ledges to climber's left.
- The exit gully is the one staring you in the face as you come down the rap gully. It has some 5th class and some loose rock. Be careful and do your best to hit this with some daylight left, since the easiest path is a little circuitous.
By Dave Alie
From: Golden, CO
Sep 2, 2014

What a great route! Several sources mentioned the popularity of moving left after the fourth pitch (acute 5.9 corner or black corner variation) to join Escape Artist rather than continuing up. Both options join the sloping ledge below the lightning bolt crack, and I should add that I haven't done Escape Artist, so I can't make a direct comparison, but I thought the original fifth pitch (engaging 5.9 in an orange-ish left-facing corner) was some of the best climbing on the entire route. Do this pitch!