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Russ using a good rest
This is the prominent climb on the prominent formation in the Comic Book area. A beautiful two-pitch crack running up wonderful white granite. Solid crack climbing skills needed.
P1) Climb a crack running up the wall (interesting 5.8) to a scoop/alcove where two bolt belay is found.
P2) This pitch starts with the crux of the climb. Some call it 10a. Crank your way up and over the upper lip of the scoop and into the continuing crack above. Enjoyable jamming leads to the top of the formation.
Descent: Scramble down off to the back and right through boulders.
Set of nuts, Small (TCU) to #3 Camalot.
ahhh - nice rest stance after that snotty little O...
Midway through the offwidth crux of the first pit...
Just past the crux offwidth section of the first ...
BETA PHOTO: Photo from the top of Cerro Torre showing the enti...
Mr Green & Mr Black finishing up Comic Book
Russ working the first pitch
|By Flying T|
Feb 10, 2003
With the horrible flaring offwidth start, I don't understand how the FA acually decided to climb this! I bitched and moaned for 10 minutes before committing, but I'm glad I did. The rest of the climb is great, but my 5'2" partner had lots of trouble on the crux.
Rather than top out and walk off, I opted to traverse left about 30' from the top on a horizontal to the rap chains of Full Frontal Nudity, which, on a 60-meter, took me to pitch one of this climb, then to the ground (well, close enough).
BTW, the comment on Full Frontal Nudity about the #4 Camalot applies here, too.
|By Woody Stark|
Oct 6, 2003
Most definitely 10a. Great route.
|By C Miller|
Nov 6, 2003
The first pitch is good but the second pitch has about ten feet of decent climbing (the crux) and then a long stretch of easy climbing to the top. Two stars out of five.
|By Tyler Logan|
From: Moreno Valley, CA
Nov 7, 2003
The location and purity of the line make this route worth doing in my opinion. Belaying in the hole is a cool experience. I was inspired to climb it after seeing Kauk and Gingery style up it in Long's THE ART OF LEADING.
|By tony grice|
Mar 1, 2006
Great route, short crux, Take a hike and try this one, Great intro multi-pitch 5.10. bring some big gear for first pitch.
Apr 5, 2006
We liked this route last weekend. The start was intimidating but the purple camalot looked good. Its too bad the second pitch eases so quickly. We took quite a bit of time scrambling off to the right but got lots of good chimneying practice. Thanks again to the guys in green and black who made the upper part look so good from watergate rock.
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 2, 2006
There is a rap anchor up top to the left a bit that will put you on the ground with a double rope rap.
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 24, 2007
The first pitch can be done with small cams in the back of the OW. No big gear required. The crack also peters out after a while and turns into some face climbing; micro cams are needed to protect this section.
The second pitch crux felt as hard or harder than the moves at the top of Illusion Dweller. Two stars because of the first pitch quality. The second is nothing to write home about.
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 25, 2007
First pitch is good, use your hip in the offwidth. Crux at start of second pitch...definitely harder than 5.9+. Not sure if its a reach thing...but the second pitch is a sandbagged struggle for 5 feet then a whole pitch of 5.5. Doesn't deserve all the stars.
|By DJ Reyes|
From: Northern Nevada
Apr 7, 2008
The start of the second pitch was flared and greasy for me. Way unpleasant and way harder than 5.9. Not reccommended.
|By Fat Dad|
From: Los Angeles, CA
Apr 9, 2008
Sounds like all the folks who dislike the route also disliked the blow to their ego. Old school 5.9 or 5.9+. Definitely a bouldery crux on pitch 2, but overall one of my faves in the park when you combine the variety of climbing and out there location. I'd say a solid two stars.
Dec 9, 2011
Great route! A little runout near the top of p1, but not too bad. Powerful crux to begin p2... such a cool move!