Comedy In Three Acts 5.11
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | FA Dick Williams, Jim McCarthy & Ants Leemets..FFA John Stannard |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Dec 12, 2007 |
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A funky crux, layback move with hard-to-place gear.
About 50 feet left of Frustration Syndrome, climb the steep face to a small overhang, make a hard move and reach a good ledge below a thin crack/pod. Dink with gear and make a several funky moves to reach a ledge and the anchor. Rap.
Location Fifty feet left of Frustration Syndrome.
Protection Mostly small wires and Rp's.
| Comments on Comedy In Three Acts |
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By JoeLeiper
Feb 19, 2008
| This is one of the weirdest pitches I've ever tried. The moves leaving "crack/pod" are somewhere, but I didn't find 'em. I vividly recall slotting a #3 stopper upside down, and getting about two feet above it. Three attempts over a couple of months--ended up exactly the same place each time, splayed out in an exotic pose on a tiny edge and a miniscule scoop. |
By David Stowe
Jul 12, 2008
| This is actually a great technical little climb. The small overhang at the bottom is probably 10a and fun move with the undercling. The crux is actually "well" protected with the yellow HB Brassie(it is good as I whipped on it on my onsight attempt). The crux involves a very technical sequence crip, to gaston to layback. Be comfortable going over very small gear(there is bomber gear below the HB , although you don't want to rely on the big bomber gear as you would likely hit the little ledge if you blew the crux and did not have the brassie in) |
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Apr 1, 2009
| One Gunkie hit it right on the head - 5.11+ to figure it out, 5.10+ thereafter. |
By akline
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.11 R
| Even with the tiny nut holding, if you blow the crux you could slam your heels into the ledge that you start the crux sequence from. I've seen it happen a few times and it's not a nice fall
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