|k. The Slime Wall
A funky crux, layback move with hard-to-place gear.
About 50 feet left of Frustration Syndrome, climb the steep face to a small overhang, make a hard move and reach a good ledge below a thin crack/pod. Dink with gear and make a several funky moves to reach a ledge and the anchor. Rap.
Fifty feet left of Frustration Syndrome.
Mostly small wires and Rp's.
Feb 19, 2008
This is one of the weirdest pitches I've ever tried. The moves leaving "crack/pod" are somewhere, but I didn't find 'em. I vividly recall slotting a #3 stopper upside down, and getting about two feet above it. Three attempts over a couple of months--ended up exactly the same place each time, splayed out in an exotic pose on a tiny edge and a miniscule scoop.
|By David Stowe|
Jul 12, 2008
This is actually a great technical little climb. The small overhang at the bottom is probably 10a and fun move with the undercling. The crux is actually "well" protected with the yellow HB Brassie(it is good as I whipped on it on my onsight attempt). The crux involves a very technical sequence crip, to gaston to layback. Be comfortable going over very small gear(there is bomber gear below the HB , although you don't want to rely on the big bomber gear as you would likely hit the little ledge if you blew the crux and did not have the brassie in)
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Apr 1, 2009
One Gunkie hit it right on the head - 5.11+ to figure it out, 5.10+ thereafter.
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Even with the tiny nut holding, if you blow the crux you could slam your heels into the ledge that you start the crux sequence from. I've seen it happen a few times and it's not a nice fall.
Aug 19, 2013
Have a C3 000. Place it with middle lobe to left, sliding it up from the bottom. It doesn't work the other way.
Or brassies, but I didn't use them as crux protection.