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Comeau's Finish 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Alain Comeau 1984
Page Views: 1,018
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 19, 2007

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Description 

This is an interesting variation that is wicked fun and the exposure is unmatched at the grade at Cathedral.... I will bring folks on this route after Upper Refuse (5.5) if they have done very well and are looking for more adventure in their day....

From the ledge, move right to the drop off and down climb the tree (I told you it was interesting).... This down climb will bring you to a ledge, from here a tricky (for short folks) traverse and in to a crack on a slab.... Protect in the crack and traverse the slab which feels Whitehorseish to another crack and climb up past an old pin to the PERFECT hand/wide hand crack.... Climb up the crack and mantel awkwardly in to the nook and on to the top (I find a #3.5 Camalot to be a good directional) belay above the prow....

I should note that the finish crack was the orignal finish to the prow before being rerouted up the nice finger crack to the left.....

The exposure I must reiterate is breathtaking....


Location 

From the ledge down climb and move to the right....


Protection 

Rack to #3.5 Camalot, though you can do with less if you are confident and creative with your gear....



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