Come the Dervish  5.10c R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Stevie Haston 1981 Submitted By:  Rob Davies UK on Jun 21, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Probably "the most popular Extreme in Snowdonia". Originally given E5 6a, wear and tear has reduced the grade to E3 5c, and even that is a bit generous. First decent runners at 25' with a hard move ro reach them, so damage to ankles is possible. From there it's sustained but well-protected climbing up a crack to a good rest below the overlap at 80'. There's a tricky move round the overlap then easier above, but only tiny wires until the top.

Location 

Standing outside Pete's Eats the line of The Dervish is obvious as a white line up the tallest slab in Vivian Quarry. Follow a path through the woods on the left, then traverse across a terrace, passing a "bad step".

Protection 

Nuts and small cams but especially microwires (eg RP0s). Abseil descent.