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Vivian Quarry
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Come the Dervish 

Come the Dervish 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Stevie Haston 1981
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: Rob Davies UK on Jun 21, 2011
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Description 

Probably "the most popular Extreme in Snowdonia". Originally given E5 6a, wear and tear has reduced the grade to E3 5c, and even that is a bit generous. First decent runners at 25' with a hard move ro reach them, so damage to ankles is possible. From there it's sustained but well-protected climbing up a crack to a good rest below the overlap at 80'. There's a tricky move round the overlap then easier above, but only tiny wires until the top.


Location 

Standing outside Pete's Eats the line of The Dervish is obvious as a white line up the tallest slab in Vivian Quarry. Follow a path through the woods on the left, then traverse across a terrace, passing a "bad step".


Protection 

Nuts and small cams but especially microwires (eg RP0s). Abseil descent.



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By Nick Russell
Administrator
From: Bristol, UK
Mar 20, 2013

The route was supposedly cleaned for the first ascent using a knife nicked from Pete's Eats