Basically a long boulder problem through the low roof. Huge horizontal cross move midway thru the crux. Requires good tendon strenght.
Shares the start of One Love before bustin' right via the aforementioned cross.
A hard clip before the RP crux.
Setting up for the Curly move. I suspect there is...
Mid-air on the mono dyno. Probably best not to tr...
Curly takes the line to the right. One Love takes...
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 6, 2011
This is one of the more unique routes around, with wild, gymnastic movement and improbable sequences. There are 5 monos, with the crux involving a dyno off a keeper mono to a small but incut mono with poor feet. The mid-section of this route has excellent stone, but the start can be seapy and tends to be a bit sub-par. The upper roof is trivial with good beta, so this is basically a 15-20 move sprint to reach the slab.
The name comes from the opening lines of the John Prine song "Speed of the Sound of Loneliness":
You come home late and you come home early
You come on big when you're feeling small
You come home straight and you come home curly
Sometimes you don't come home at all
So-named because of the pretzl-move getting past the fourth bolt that sent Todd spinning on the end of the rope when he fell there. There's a great shot of Todd doing this move on the dedication page of Bechtel's "Lander Sport Climbs".