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Combining Strength and Stamina In a Single Workout?
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By Casey Ryback
Mar 1, 2013
Chief Petty Officer and former Navy Seal turned chef

I think your fingerboard workout is better for improving strength than long repeaters.

Tons of repeaters really feel like a power endurance workout to me. The whole program seems like, "Power endurance phase on fingerboard. Stop and give body a break for a few weeks and do some campusing to keep power up. Train power endurance again, but this time on a bouldering wall."


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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Mar 1, 2013
Gunking

Nico Toscani wrote:
I don't see anything wrong with doing both. It should be noted that the fingerboard workout you described is very different from what people on this board are thinking of. Yours is aimed at improving finger strength, and probably isnt grueling overall so its not a problem to train stamina(or whatever else) afterwords. When folks in this forum hear "hyp phase fingerboard" they are thinking of an 18 set monster repeater workout that will leave most people pretty destroyed. That's why theyre saying you shouldnt do anything after or else you will get injured. Their workout is described in 'making of a rock prodigy' and its similar to the workouts on the beastmaker app.


To me, the traditional repeater seems like more of a high end anaerobic endurance workout. In my uneducated opinion, it seems better to take generous rest and focus on doing the hardest hangs possible.


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By Casey Ryback
Mar 1, 2013
Chief Petty Officer and former Navy Seal turned chef

Yep, I agree.


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Mar 8, 2013
At the BRC

Alvaro Arnal wrote:
I have heard that doing stamina/endurance immediately after a strength session can diminish the gains of that strength workout.


I've been trying to research the literature on this without much luck addressing the relevant question.
There are lots of studies looking at strength training and running/cycling type endurance training with varying results. Reboot summarized the recommendations of the rowing article pretty well. But that's different from how climbers train. We want to train local muscle strength and local muscle endurance, not whole body cardiovascular endurance.
I did see one article where they did arm cycle ergometry and arm strength training concurrently and found no effect on strength development (at least in men) but it was a pretty small study.
There are some theoretical reasons why training both might be a bad idea, but seems like plenty of climbers do it without obvious ill effects.


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