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Combat Conditions
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in The Filing Cabinet
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Combat Conditions T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sabotage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Bill Boyle |
| Page Views: | 637 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Young on Jul 21, 2012 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
The mental crux of this route is getting to the first bolt. There really are no pro options before then, and its about 20' up. The climbing to it was bit technical for my comfort, and it was a strain to reach it (I'm 6'1"). A long stick clip would have been nice.
Afterward the climbing eases up considerably with a long runout (possible groundfall potential?) between decent pro placements initially.
The crux is surmounting the crack at the top. There is a bolt protecting it. It didn't really need to be there, as there was decent pro options nearby, but it was nice to have it none-the-less (pro would have potentially taken up a good hand-hold).
The crux sequence was kind of tricky to figure out. There are some non-obvious holds that really seemed to help once I found them. It was very rewarding to have done it, and earned this route a star, in my opinion.
Afterward the climbing eases up considerably with a long runout (possible groundfall potential?) between decent pro placements initially.
The crux is surmounting the crack at the top. There is a bolt protecting it. It didn't really need to be there, as there was decent pro options nearby, but it was nice to have it none-the-less (pro would have potentially taken up a good hand-hold).
The crux sequence was kind of tricky to figure out. There are some non-obvious holds that really seemed to help once I found them. It was very rewarding to have done it, and earned this route a star, in my opinion.
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