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Comatose Area
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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jeff Burton and Matt Hodges
Season: Fall - Spring
Page Views: 4,128
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Mar 27, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Fun crux! Don't exit early

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Comatose is the classic climb is this area. The climb follows an arching and widening crack, using some jams and liebacks, until you step onto the face at a notch. Cruise the face climbing section to the anchors


You can miss this crack...


Standard NC rack and a 4 inch piece. Long slings. Rap anchors at the top of the climb. 60 m rope will get you to the ground with stretch (barely)...a 70 m is better.

Photos of Comatose Slideshow Add Photo
Comatose, 5.8, Rumbling Bald, NC follows the arching crack on the left.
Comatose, 5.8, Rumbling Bald, NC follows the archi...
great placement
great placement
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By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Mar 10, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Great route! The start is a little strenuous, but the gear is great. Double ropes are a good option, and maybe even necessary -- even with rope stretch, 60m wasn't enough for me to get to the ground from the anchors (though I guess if I'd done the route right, I might have had more rope left over).

If you want to add a little spice to your lead, instead of moving over to the face where the crack widens out, continue up to the apex of the crack and pull the roof into a right-facing dihedral (I did this by mistake).

By scoTt Millbern
From: Langenfeld, Germany
May 6, 2008

I'll agree with saxfiend. Go up to the top of the crack. A lot more fun.

I though it was a little run out after getting away from the crack, but on very easy ground

Dec 13, 2011

Just so you know - prepare for a healthy stretch of runout (on easy ground) after you step onto the face. Continuing to the apex of the crack and pulling the bulge reduces the runout but not entirely.

By John Lombardi
Mar 15, 2014


A green C3 will protect pulling the roof.