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Comatose is the classic climb is this area. The climb follows an arching and widening crack, using some jams and liebacks, until you step onto the face at a notch. Cruise the face climbing section to the anchors
You can miss this crack...
Standard NC rack and a 4 inch piece. Long slings. Rap anchors at the top of the climb. 60 m rope will get you to the ground with stretch (barely)...a 70 m is better.
BETA PHOTO: Fun crux! Don't exit early
From: Decatur, GA
Mar 10, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Great route! The start is a little strenuous, but the gear is great. Double ropes are a good option, and maybe even necessary -- even with rope stretch, 60m wasn't enough for me to get to the ground from the anchors (though I guess if I'd done the route right, I might have had more rope left over).
If you want to add a little spice to your lead, instead of moving over to the face where the crack widens out, continue up to the apex of the crack and pull the roof into a right-facing dihedral (I did this by mistake).
|By scoTt Millbern|
From: Langenfeld, Germany
May 6, 2008
I'll agree with saxfiend. Go up to the top of the crack. A lot more fun.
I though it was a little run out after getting away from the crack, but on very easy ground
|By EVAN HAYS|
Dec 13, 2011
Just so you know - prepare for a healthy stretch of runout (on easy ground) after you step onto the face. Continuing to the apex of the crack and pulling the bulge reduces the runout but not entirely.