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 ADVANCED
Comatose Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Cracker T 
Comatose T 
Conception T,S 
Cookie Time in Budapest T 
Egg Hunt T 
Family Feud T,S 
Gingerbread Man T 
Lost Face T,S 
Name Unknown T,S 
Pull the Plug S 
Resurrection T 
Resurrection Ramp T 
Rusty Redneck T,S 
That's the Way the Cookie Crumbles T 
Trick or Feet T,S 
unknown S 
Unknown 2 T,TR 

Comatose 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jeff Burton and Matt Hodges
Season: Fall - Spring
Page Views: 4,517
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Mar 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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great placement

Description 

Comatose is the classic climb is this area. The climb follows an arching and widening crack, using some jams and liebacks, until you step onto the face at a notch. Cruise the face climbing section to the anchors

Location 

You can miss this crack...

Protection 

Standard NC rack and a 4 inch piece. Long slings. Rap anchors at the top of the climb. 60 m rope will get you to the ground with stretch (barely)...a 70 m is better.


Photos of Comatose Slideshow Add Photo
Comatose
Comatose
Comatose, 5.8, Rumbling Bald, NC follows the arching crack on the left.
Comatose, 5.8, Rumbling Bald, NC follows the archi...
Fun crux! Don't exit early
BETA PHOTO: Fun crux! Don't exit early
Brian S. leading comatose.
Brian S. leading comatose.

Comments on Comatose Add Comment
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Mar 10, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great route! The start is a little strenuous, but the gear is great. Double ropes are a good option, and maybe even necessary -- even with rope stretch, 60m wasn't enough for me to get to the ground from the anchors (though I guess if I'd done the route right, I might have had more rope left over).

If you want to add a little spice to your lead, instead of moving over to the face where the crack widens out, continue up to the apex of the crack and pull the roof into a right-facing dihedral (I did this by mistake).
By scoTt Millbern
From: Langenfeld, Germany
May 6, 2008

I'll agree with saxfiend. Go up to the top of the crack. A lot more fun.

I though it was a little run out after getting away from the crack, but on very easy ground
By EVAN HAYS
Dec 13, 2011

Just so you know - prepare for a healthy stretch of runout (on easy ground) after you step onto the face. Continuing to the apex of the crack and pulling the bulge reduces the runout but not entirely.
By John Lombardi
Mar 15, 2014

Beta:

A green C3 will protect pulling the roof.
By Jonathan Dull
From: NC High County
May 9, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Comatose reminds me of a classic Yosemite layback, a great line with awesome pro! A #4 Camalot is definitely mandatory to keep things safe moving through the wide section, also bring a .3 Camalot for the runout up top.