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Comatose, 5.8, Rumbling Bald, NC follows the archi...
Comatose is the classic climb is this area. The climb follows an arching and widening crack, using some jams and liebacks, until you step onto the face at a notch. Cruise the face climbing section to the anchors
You can miss this crack...
Standard NC rack and a 4 inch piece. Long slings. Rap anchors at the top of the climb. 60 m rope will get you to the ground with stretch (barely)...a 70 m is better.
BETA PHOTO: Fun crux! Don't exit early
From: Decatur, GA
Mar 10, 2008
Great route! The start is a little strenuous, but the gear is great. Double ropes are a good option, and maybe even necessary -- even with rope stretch, 60m wasn't enough for me to get to the ground from the anchors (though I guess if I'd done the route right, I might have had more rope left over).
If you want to add a little spice to your lead, instead of moving over to the face where the crack widens out, continue up to the apex of the crack and pull the roof into a right-facing dihedral (I did this by mistake).
|By scoTt Millbern|
From: Langenfeld, Germany
May 6, 2008
I'll agree with saxfiend. Go up to the top of the crack. A lot more fun.
I though it was a little run out after getting away from the crack, but on very easy ground
|By EVAN HAYS|
Dec 13, 2011
Just so you know - prepare for a healthy stretch of runout (on easy ground) after you step onto the face. Continuing to the apex of the crack and pulling the bulge reduces the runout but not entirely.