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Scout Rock
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But for a Silver Bullet ...  T 
Comanche Warrior S 
Cornered S 
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Funhouse Chimney TR 
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Unsorted Routes:

Comanche Warrior 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Richard Wright, Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder, 2001
Page Views: 1,258
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 4, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Phil moving through the crux.

Description 

Comanche Warrior has already seen a bunch of ascents, and that is the reason for putting it up here. The route starts in the West-facing corner system of Scout Rock and takes the headwall flake left of War Path. Comanche Warrior can be done in a single long pitch or as two short pitches.

P1. The first pitch is 5.9 and on excellent stone. It is a little tricky but good fun. It might seem nice to link with the second pitch, but after running it again, it still seemed better to break it up into two pitches just to keep the rope running well. If you bring some slings, instead of using just quickdraws, the link-up should be okay.

P2. The second pitch ticks in at hardish 5.11 or perhaps a tad easier. It has cleaned up nicely and climbs on very good stone. The traverse is largely obvious, but it does need some careful foot work as you cut right.

Protection 

Two pitches with QDs for both. The route can be done as a single 85 foot line or as two 40 -50 foot pitches. Four QDs on the first are needed; seven on the second. Each pitch has a double bolt anchor at the top.


Photos of Comanche Warrior Slideshow Add Photo
Phil right before the pumpy crux.
Phil right before the pumpy crux.
Bruce Hildenbrand at the crux of the first pitch.
Bruce Hildenbrand at the crux of the first pitch.
Open for business.
Open for business.
The upper half of the rock. Comanche follows the d...
BETA PHOTO: The upper half of the rock. Comanche follows the d...

Comments on Comanche Warrior Add Comment
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By Gabe Anderson
Apr 5, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I really enjoyed the first pitch of Comm. Warrior. It has two distinct cruxes that both involve long reaches on good holds. Fun short route. The bolts seem to be intelligently located. The only problem is the close proximity to the highway for the belayer.
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Apr 12, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

According to Richard, the climb is open for business. I will pull the tag when I get a chance.
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
May 3, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

B.S.!!!!!

Now the route is open for business. See the attached photo when it uploads.

11d, maybe 12a. If you work your way up the chimney, the crux is 1 move with 1 or 2 11ish moves following. Tricky body tension to avoid a barndoor, then two powerful moves to jugs. Felt a liitle harder with a 10 lb rock in my right hand!
By Tim Fleming
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 15, 2006

IMPORTANT NOTE ON THE GRADING!
There are 3 different grades for this route: 5.9, 5.10c/d, 5.12-. All of them are right... depending on your point of view. The description of the route was created with a 5.9 grade before the whole route was complete. The 5.9 only applies to the first pitch. The consensus reflects both pitches which Matt Juth says goes at 5.12a - put the 3 grades listed together and you get 5.10c/d (this is the most misleading grade of the 3). This was not clear to me and my partner when we decided to give it a go.

It's a nice route and certainly worth doing. I didn't get through the crux and will need to work it some more. Dividing the 85' route into 2 pitches is not necessary. Just bring enough draws and enjoy the good rest before the crux. Also taping your hands would be helpful for the beautiful, but cheese grater like hand jam off the belay (of the first pitch) below the crux.
By Cale Farnham
Oct 2, 2009

Thought this climb went 11b/c. Cruised through the 1st pitch and took a tiny rest before poping up to the finger lock in the entrance of the chimney. Clipped the bolt in between the crux and pushed through the flake to good jugs above! Definitely one of my favorite lines on Scout Rock! 3 stars in my opinion!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 5, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Don't let the grade intimidate you. The bolts are at your hips, and it is nowhere near 5.12 if you find the right sequence. I came off it relaxed and thought it was 10+ (Eldo 10c) before reading this.
Long arm-span probably helped, and shorter people will suffer a harder crux.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 5, 2012

I'll fix the entry if we get a consensus. I have run through this pitch several times since posting here and have thought it to be significantly easier than 12 each time I've been on it. Best guess..??
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 6, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Well, you can click the "details" link and see a consensus voting, but some of those were right after it was entered, and some apparently follow Bernard's book rating. For my own part, it never occurred to me that I might fall off, which generally occurs to me in the 11 range. But bear in mind that long reaches to big holds through steep territory is my strength.... I figured it might be 11-.
I thought it easier than Hunting Party or Broken Arrow.
These are good routes, BTW - thanks for equipping those.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 10, 2012

How about 5.11? For some, it is probably harder than 11a but not 11d, somewhere near 11b for most????