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Comales Canyon
Ultralight Curve Nut Set #1-10

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Black Diamond Raven Ice Axe

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Mad Rock Banshee Climbing Shoe - Women's

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Patagonia Women's Northwall Jacket

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Patagonia Women's SwitchbackR Bra

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Patagonia Men's Northwall Jacket

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Patagonia Women's Pelage Jacket

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Fire Wall and Upper Tier 
Water Wall and Lower Areas 

Comales Canyon 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,500'
Lat, Long: 36.1596, -105.5853 Map
Page Views: 12,787. Good page?   
Administrators: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Mike Howard on Nov 5, 2008

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Dan going for FA on a new route left of Burnt on F...

Description 

Beautiful high mountain setting in pristine canyon with bullet-hard rock. Moderate trad on the banks of a mountain stream (Water Wall), and a few fun bolted sport routes on the steep black and orange cliff band above (Fire Wall).


Getting There 

Hwy 518 about 18 miles east of Taos. Look for FS Rd 22 just past Comales Campground at a turnout on the right. If you get to Sipapu, you missed it...

Great swimming a mile East on NM 518 at a pull out on the north of the road below a series of small waterfalls.

Food, gas, lodging and a nice disc golf course in Sipapu Ski Area a few miles further east on NM518. One of the most family friendly climbing areas in Taos county.

Guide book for the area is Jay Foley's "Taos Rock"

Local guide service www.climbtaos.com


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Comales Canyon:
Take the Plunge   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Water Wall and Lower Areas
Fun for the Whole Family   5.8+     Sport, 40 feet   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
In Descent   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Gunky Monkey   5.9+ PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Water Wall and Lower Areas
Comales Tamale   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Water Wall and Lower Areas
Nicole's Corner   5.10a     Sport   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Open Books   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Water Wall and Lower Areas
E-Z Rider   5.10a     Sport, 40 feet   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
It Takes a Village to Raise a Route   5.10b     Sport, 45 feet   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Prescribed burn   5.10b     Sport, 50 feet   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Burt Crack   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Water Wall and Lower Areas
Skewed Right Up   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Water Wall and Lower Areas
Fire Walker   5.11a     Sport, 50 feet   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
The Egg   5.11a     Sport, 50 feet   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Fiyo   5.11+     Sport, 60 feet   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Father's Day   5.11c/d     Sport, 50 feet   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Reignite   5.11d     Sport, 50 feet   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Toast   5.11d     Sport, 50 feet   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Burnt   5.11d     Sport, 60 feet   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Family Man   5.12     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Browse More Classics in Comales Canyon

Featured Route For Comales Canyon
ez rider goes  up left side of photo, on orange rock, up to left side of roof.  dennis hopper memorial route goes up behind tree to red green corner up high

E-Z Rider 5.10a  NM : Taos Area : ... : Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Bouldery start to high first bolt. Try to stay on bolt line, harder to right easier to the left. A little reachy at the crux. Easy finish on left side of arete. Easy top rope route to left....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Photos of Comales Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing Magazine No 293 March 2011

BETA PHOTO: Climbing Magazine No 293 March 2011

firewall

firewall


Comments on Comales Canyon Add Comment
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By Jfoley
May 25, 2010

Several new sport routes on and left of fire wall.

By Paul Drakos
Jul 14, 2010

Dennis Jackson's guidebook, Climbing in New Mexico, also covers Comales Canyon and has a nice sketch of the Water Wall.
The rock at Comales is the Ortega Quartzite, or an equivalent unit.
The new sport rounts on/left of the Fire Wall are decent routes that should improve with some more traffic.

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 18, 2012

Info on many of the new routes in Comales Canyon is listed on Jay Foley's Mountain Skills Guide's webpage:
www.climbingschoolusa.com/newrouteinformation/nmnewrouteamol>>>