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BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Columbia, which follows the obv...
The first pitch is an excellent alternate P1 for Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst if you are up to leading 5.8.
P1 - Climb the obvious curving crack and face past a bulge (harder than it looks), then up to a ledge with a tree. Either belay at the tree to TR P1 or continue onto P2 or move right on the ledge to continue up Madame G's. 5.8 G
P2 - Climb straight up the face to a pink and white left-facing corner. Climb the corner past old pins (there as of 2005) to another stance. Work past the bulge (crux), then move left around a corner. Continue up the corner to the GT ledge. 5.9 PG
At a curving crack 15 feet right of Southern Pillar and 20 feet left of the blocky start that marks P1 of Madame G's.
Standard Gunks rack.
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 12, 2009
The first pitch looks really easy from the ground. As such, I jumped on it. It's reasonably straight forward, then you hit the crux. The crux is more difficult than it looks, but, very doable. Nice alternative to the first pitch of Madame G's.
P2 is very fun as well.
Jun 21, 2010
The first pitch of this route is a lot of fun. It is also totally G; I don't know why Dick gives it a PG in his guide; I placed so much gear on this short pitch! But watch out for the loose block right before the crux. I have posted a photo with the block indicated.
Aug 9, 2010
Agree with Seth - totally G. I plugged so much gear in anticipation of PG, it was ridiculous. I only did P1 - soft .8
Nov 14, 2010
I went back to this climb and did the second pitch and I have a few more comments:
1. The loose block on pitch one (that I mentioned in June) probably isn't coming out; my partner thought it was no big deal. I still wouldn't place any gear behind it.
2. Pitch two is great! It is not a 5.9. Swain calls it 5.9-, but Williams calls it 5.7. I think it is a sustained, pumpy 5.7. The crux technical moves are the initial ones past the pins, and then it has a long overhanging jugfest similar to but longer than the ones on Strictly's and Son of Easy O P2. A hidden gem, really, although once the angle eases off the last bit of the pitch is less fun and kind of dirty.
Nov 15, 2010
Agree with Seth - P2 is awesome. The crux is between two pins. After that, it's a sustained but pleasant jughaul. Instead of diagonaling right to Madame G's rings, I went straight up the left-facing corner to the GT ledge just under a big roof. My partner finished on the overhang - really nice short pitch, just a tiny bit dirty. I think this is the 5.9- part. This corner roof needs more traffic.
Mar 5, 2011
Can anyone comment upon and/or add to the route description variation or variations to pitch 2, either before or after arching overhang, that brings you out on to the face to the right? Twice recently I have taken a look out on the face once above the overhanging bit. Didn't step out since it looked a bit stiff for my seconds at the time.
|By Michal Pasniewski|
Jun 20, 2011
P1 is cool and P2 is great at that level - with a definitely _not_ 5.7 crux; PG indeed. The finish is not well defined.
|By Ross Fadely|
Jul 10, 2011
P1 = short but good, barely 8-
P2 = interesting 7 to relaxed climbing
|By Jake D.|
Sep 20, 2011
I dunno, I would call it .8 first pitch and still PG. I found it really fiddly at the crux. block is good though, i yarded off that thing.
|By Chris Duca|
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Apr 8, 2013
Great first pitch, and the 2nd pitch becomes forgettable after about 40 or 50 ft. of climbing. The rock quality deteriorates rather quickly making the gear drastically less ideal the higher you climb. Be careful, too, as there are some large, loose blocks/flakes around.