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Columbia Mountains

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Cariboo Mountians 
Monashee Mountains 
Purcell Mountians 
Selkirk Mountains 

Columbia Mountains  


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Location: 51.8557, -118.74395 View Map  Incorrect?
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Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 10, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: COLUMBIA MOUNTAINS: orange - Cariboos yellow - Mon...

GEOGRAPHY

Four mountain ranges make up the region called the Columbia Mountains. They are; the Purcell Mountains, Selkirk Mountains, Cariboo Mountains, and Monashee Mountains.

The Selkirk Mountains are where to find the Adamant Group, Mount Sir Sandford, Mount Sir Donald, and the Battle Range. The outstanding sport crag of Slocan Bluffs is in the Selkirks, along with all of the other Kootenay rock climbing areas around Nelson and Castlegar.

The Purcell Mountains are where to find the Bugaboos, Vowells, and Leaning Towers; the islands of good rock in a range of choss. In general, the rocks that crop out along the the logging roads of the Purcells tend to be less appealing, softer, metamorphic rocks; mica schist for example.

The Monashee Range has two groups of steep, alpine, peaks to recommend; Mt Begbie, near Revelstoke and the Mt Odin/Mt Thor peaks, above Shelter Bay on Upper Arrow Lake. South of Revelstoke, along Highway 23, there is good sport climbing on quartzite. Begbie Bluffs and Blanket Creek have lots of fixed draws on really steep stuff. Not a lot of moderates though, but enough for those who are okay with 5.10.

Caribou Mountains see mostly ski industry visitors, via choppers. William L Putnam had this to say in 1971: "There still remain a dozen unclimbed summits exceeding 9,000' in the Northernmost Cariboos." The Caribous are mostly drained by the Fraser River, but nevertheless are still is considered a range of the Columbia Mountains.

MOUNTAIN CONDITION REPORTS

Canadian mountain guides have been around a long time, more than a century now. The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides generously share their hard won observations and photographs of current conditions for both the Columbia Mountains and Canadian Rockies.




Climbing Season



Weather station 15.9 miles from here

62 Total Routes

['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',4],['5.8',9],['5.9',5],['5.10',21],['5.11',11],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Columbia Mountains :
West Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Spire
Northwest Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X     Trad, Alpine, 2400'   Selkirk Mountains : Mount Sir Donald
Kain Route (South Ridge)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Lion's Way   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   The Bugaboos : Crescent Towers
Ears Between   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 750'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Towers
Wiessner's Route (aka SE Corner)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 17 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
North East Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Wildflowers   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Surfs Up   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
South Ridge   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000'   Valhalla Mountains : Mount Gimli
McTech Arete   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Beckey-Chouinard   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2000'   Howser Towers : South Howser Tower
Paddle Flake Direct   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Furry Pink Arete   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Cooper-Kor   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R     Trad, Alpine, 18 pitches, 1000'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Spire
McTech Roof   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Super Direct   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Sunshine Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Energy Crisis   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Solitary Confinement   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Feathers
Browse More Classics in Columbia Mountains

Featured Route For Columbia Mountains
The last pitch, hands and fists for 100', then han...

Sunshine Crack 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  North America : Canada : ... : Snowpatch Spire
This climb is one of the best I have ever done! It follows a continuous crack system for almost 900 feet and has everything from fingers to offwidth. The following description is as my partner and I climbed it which was in six long pitches with a 60m rope. Done this way we thought that every pitch was in the 5.10 range. Bring two ropes to rap off (we had a tag line) and some warm clothes since you'll be in the shade for most of the climb. P1: Climb up a steep right facing dihedral with two...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Columbia Mountains Slideshow Add Photo
KINNAIRD BLUFFS; along the Columbia just south of ...
BETA PHOTO: KINNAIRD BLUFFS; along the Columbia just south of ...
MT SIR DONALD (3,277m) From Hwy 1, smokey skies, S...
BETA PHOTO: MT SIR DONALD (3,277m) From Hwy 1, smokey skies, S...
Ferry across the Columbia on the road from Nelson ...
Ferry across the Columbia on the road from Nelson ...
ILLECILLEWAET NEVE September 24, 2012 Forest fire ...
BETA PHOTO: ILLECILLEWAET NEVE September 24, 2012 Forest fire ...
Lake Revelstoke (Columbia River) and the Monahsee ...
BETA PHOTO: Lake Revelstoke (Columbia River) and the Monahsee ...

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