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 ADVANCED
Last Stand Wall
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Colorectal Surgery Disaster T 
Crescent Moon S 
Fist Full of Scalps S 
Last Stand, The S 
Peyote Trip S 
Scalp Fest S 
Sweat Lodge S 

Colorectal Surgery Disaster 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: David Lenz, Peter Lenz
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 312
Submitted By: PeterSLenz on Jul 24, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Colorectal Surgery Disaster ascends the prominent ...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

You will find interesting climbing up a wide crack/narrow chimney.
Crux is a small overhang. Off-width skills not required.Lichen, moss and loose blocks add spice to the 5.8 grade. (I rated it a "bomb," due to the loose blocks.) Construct your anchor with two double length runners (around small trees) and a 0.75 Camalot in a shallow hole. To the West of this crack is a low angle gully which serves as the descent route. Welcome to the real world.

Location 

This pitch is a crack/chimney located at the far West (ie climber's right) of the Last Stand Wall. Descent: walk down the easy gully West of the climb.

Protection 

No bolts, but the crack allows for good protection.
Trees at top provide anchors. A .75 camalot can also be used. (Feel free to add a bolt anchor if there is any evidence that the trees are being damaged or do not provide an adequate anchor.)
Cams and nuts provide excellent protection on this route. Bring one 4-5 inch cam for the wide section.
Be certain your belayer stands to the side, so that you do not crush their skull with a loose block.


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By zoso
Jul 24, 2013

Heh! Great route name.

I'm gonna buy a $600 drill just for this. Can't wait to add an anchor (and spray bolts all over it while I'm at it). I'm super motivated by the quality rating.