What are the conditions there?
any Ice or Alpine routes in good condition?
Thanks.

www.climbinglife.com often has information to that end. the most recent conditions report is from September 25th, but the information contained therein, along with the info in their weather report and your own assessment of high country weather, should give you a decent idea.

The Loft is IN.
Alexander's is IN.
Dreamweaver is IN.
Some other climbs are forming but not yet ready.
The Smear is not yet ready.............

Go out and explore. There is a lot of potential right now.

Jack

Walked around tonight. A little new snow and lot of water forming into ice. If it gets cold the next couple of days...oh boy!

Anyone up for doing dreamweaver next weekend (Sunday)?
I am coming from Albq. I can lead rock, ice, alpine and hike.
L.

CMS guide, Chris Burke, found these conditions last weekend:

"Climbed Alexander's to just above the chockstone yesterday. The ice was thin and/or not very well bonded in some spots, but it was definitely climbable. Above the chockstone there wasn't much though. Lamb's Slide is partly covered with snow from the recent storms, but it seems to be well consolidated."

Great time for looking around the park! Enjoy and be safe.

Since the weekend the ice conditions on Alexander's have thickened-up quite a bit.............

Anyone interested in climbing ice down in Pike's Peak area?

Jack

Hey Jack, I'm in the springs and would be interested for sure for going up on the peak,
Let me know what day? All my normal partners are outa town. Trask

Good luck getting up on pikes unless u like long aproches rumor has it they are closing
the road for any reason,

wind too high, two inches of snow on the road,ect ect

if you are lucky enough to get to the hero traverse let us know how it looks

thanks

I tried to get up to the Hero's traverse on Monday, and the road was closed at the 10 mile marker due to high wind. I was like WTF because it was an absolutely perfect day. Bigwallrog, and myself have been up there more than a few times this year, and this has been the situation every time. They are working on paving the road to the top, and ARE using any excuse to close the road. I think because they don't want to deal with all the traffic. The only way we were able to make it there at a decent hour was bigwall using his man charm on the lady ranger, and getting us ride in her truck past the blockade, and were we needed to go.

Man charm? Yea if ya call yellin down hey how bout a ride man charm lol.......

Anyway I think she was sweet on you and was jumpin on the chance to get you in her truck n tolerated me to that end HA!

That's a bummer about Monday I was stoked for you and that proud solo send you were planning if it hadn't been for the JD marathon at Turkey I was going to be all over
that trip .

This should be a heads up for all planning a trip there btw sence you did not mention the refund hastle I will

Make sure n ask before paying your money at the toll booth how far the road is open

Cool,

Now back to RMNP Conditions... anyone been up there these past couple of days? It's puking down here in Ft. Collins right now.

We walked in to Chasm Lake today in hopes of climbing something in the cirque. Unfortunately, it was a very cold, very windy January day up there. By the time we got to the lake, we couldn't even see the east face of Longs. The slope below the lake was drifted hip-deep in places. We got a very brief glimpse of The Smear which appears to be forming well and climbs in the Crazy Train area look to be coming in. Couldn't see anything on Meeker either (could be climbs coming in there, but couldn't even see the mountain). Lots of deep drifted snow in pockets all over the place - be careful out there.

Hey Jack, did you guys get on anything?

Why Kevin.......I was just hinking of you.

Kelly and I wandered up to Chasm Lake but couldn't see much beyond the bldr field. So we turned around.

We did those other routes we saw before we met you guys. We decided that in their current state they are about WI5/5+ and M6 or so. Good protection with a rap descent. A full conditions day!!
The ice is probably only going to get better and then
it........will...........disappear. Better do them soon.

I have another idea that you might be interested in. I'm free all next week.

Jack

Ah, so it did go, cool. Nice job.

Monday's a possibility if the approach isn't too long. I'll PM you.

Good seeing you!

Anyone know what things are looking like in the longs cirque??

Took a walk around the Mills Lake area on Sunday (11th october). It was still very dry. Some folks dry tooling in the Loch Vail area. Minimum snow on the trail.
Jon

Was up at Mills on Saturday...ice was minimal, very thin on the slabs. Only icicles forming on the overhangs.

anyone seen whats up on longs? alexanders or dreamy on meeker?

Justin,

You know the rules.....you have to walk around the Park at least three times without climbing anything before anyone gives up information.

But, cuz I'm a nice guy and also 'cuz I don't have my conditions page going yet I'll give it up.......

Alexander's chimney is getting climbed. It's not as thick as some years but it also is not so thin that a competent leader can't work through the thin bits. Dreamweaver is in but there was a slide there 8 days ago that was windpacked. It's been super windy every time I've gone up there...which is three times. Mt. Lady Wash was in but probably isn't now. Smear of Fear is forming as are Crazy Train and Ball and Chain.

Nothing formed to any degree at Loch Vale and Necrophilia is not formed.....It was in for a short few days. There is a new route a few hundred feet left of Vanquished. Double Tap I think is its name and the grade is WI4, M5. 3 pitches long. AMU is very thin and Black Lake slabs are forming.

that's about all I know for sure in RMNP.........

Thanks Jack O


I may hike in this noche and fudge around. I'll be in touch for next week.


Ciao

How about lets have a little patience, and wait for things to form up better. Weather conditions are prime for ice climbing this year, if we can just wait a little longer.

Deep Freeze has its two approach pitches in but the final pitch is a very small hanging dagger (much smaller than last years). Necro is only snow.

Anyone been up to Chasm Lake in the last couple of days and see how the Smear (or the stuff near Crazy Train) is looking? I walked in Wed but couldn't see a thing due to the storm that rolled through.

I'm heading up to Chasm lake tomorrow, will post conditions and pics.