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2009/2010 Colorado Ice Conditions
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Nov 23, 2009
took a tour in to the longs cirque yesterday. Lots of wind up there.
not much ice. dreamweaver looked climbable but more snow then ice. marha's looked the same. Mt lady WA n.face was bare. Nothing on the lower E. face of longs. maybe alexanders? Didnt go that far though.

The N. face of Meeker seemed to have the most ice on it. Excluding dreamweaver and darkstar.

Lots of snow being dropped and moved by wind with not much ice to hack at.


meeker conditions.
meeker conditions.
SAL
From broomdigiddy
Joined Mar 23, 2007
744 points
Nov 23, 2009
Went to Vail yesterday. The Designator and Fang are still a long ways off.

There are a couple of new bolted routes in the Amphitheatre area and it looks like another new bolted line going in right of Resurrection. Booth Creek is dry. In Officer's Gulch The Needle aka Candlestick continues to grow and grow. Lots of water to feed the formation of routes but it's just too warm.

On the Telluride Front, Ames Ice Hose is IN and has seen a couple of ascents. First pitch is thin and skinny but if you can sack up, it's climbable.
jack roberts
Joined Oct 30, 2002
62 points
Nov 23, 2009
Climbed AMU on saturday. 2nd pitch is thin in spots, but protects with rock gear. Upper pitch was super fun, with lots of spin drift. Posted a conditions photo to the database. More photos here: zclipped.com/?p=107 Jason Killgore
From boulder, co
Joined Sep 18, 2008
178 points
Nov 23, 2009
DNF
I climbed Stariway yesterday and it was good. It was steeper than usual and some of the top outs were a bit spicy. We started early to beat the afternoon heat and were rewarded by being the first party on. The temps are still not really low so start early to avoid thin conditions with warm temps. I was at campbird yesterday afternoon and there is nothing. mattb19
Joined Jan 14, 2007
213 points
Nov 23, 2009
mattb19 wrote:
I climbed Stariway yesterday and it was good. It was steeper than usual and some of the top outs were a bit spicy. We started early to beat the afternoon heat and were rewarded by being the first party on. The temps are still not really low so start early to avoid thin conditions with warm temps. I was at campbird yesterday afternoon and there is nothing.


Soloed it 2 weeks ago and I know of a couple of guys in town that climbed it around that time too. Third pitch was a great little pillar....odd for the climb but great early season conditions.

There are 4 great climbs in up in camp bird. Climbed sneffels right before that last storm and there great lines up by the mine.
Ray Hellinger
From Zion...for the most part
Joined Feb 2, 2006
378 points
Administrator
Nov 23, 2009
On Mt. Evans, Ben Collett's The Road is still in. We were the 2nd party on it 11/22/9. The trail and the road aren't dry anymore. It's cold and no visible melting is going on, so it might not last too long. Also, it felt like 5 miles in and 7.5 miles out, so count on an aerobic day.

Across from The Road.
Across from The Road.


was a tiny bit of ice in the sun across from The Road.

Right of The Road.
Right of The Road.


looked like a possible hard person's ascent.
Leo Paik
From Westminster, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,274 points
Nov 28, 2009
Climbed at Lincoln Falls today. 30 people were there by the time we were leaving at 1pm. There isn't a lot of ice there. Only the flow on the left which isn't very steep.

Tim
Lincoln Falls today
Lincoln Falls today
Tim Banfield
From Calgary, Alberta
Joined Aug 30, 2009
62 points
Nov 28, 2009
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Blind Assumption on Pikes is still in good shape. Pretty decent amount of ice. Gear is about half screws (13 and 16cm) and half rock gear. Bring a #3 Camalot for the P2 (the way we did it) crux. Approach is hard slab over sugar - make your own assessment. Significant added snow load would make it pretty serious in our estimation.

-edit- and thanks Jack, for the climb and the encouragement!
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Nov 28, 2009
Made it out to Vail yesterday to mess around near the raquet club...

Conditions seem to be well on their way-> Check out a few pics Here.
mike bromberg
From Revelstoke
Joined Aug 1, 2007
339 points
Nov 29, 2009
Conditions in Vail are improving. There is a new bolted M8 route left of 8mm with a possible new line to the left of that. There is also a new bolted M7 line right of Ressurection.
Spiral Staircase is nice and steep with the Pencil and Eraser formed up behind. The Firehouse is formed and is nice and steep. The Fang and Rigid Designator is along way off.
Frigid Inseminator is climbable. Doctor Delicate is forming real nice. Booth Creek climbs are still dry.

In RMNP Jewel Lake climbs are in, Grace Falls, AMU, NE Face Notchtop, Black Lake climbs, Alexander's are all IN and getting climbed.
jack roberts
Joined Oct 30, 2002
62 points
Nov 29, 2009
mixed ice route
Hessie Chimney is out. Brian Tessier
From Lakehood, Colorado
Joined Dec 7, 2003
320 points
Nov 29, 2009
On Bridelveil
Did Blind Assumption today. Lots of ice. It's getting hooked out and broken up though.
Beginning of the second pitch
Beginning of the second pitch
Daniel Battin
From Green Mtn. Falls, CO
Joined Nov 26, 2006
370 points
Nov 29, 2009
Bocan
Drove by Silver Plume today, and its forming. The creek down to I-70 is frozen, but it didn't seem developed enough to climb. Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
Nov 30, 2009
Profile Photo
Photo of the Big Thompson, Upper Flow. . .

Big Thompson, Upper Flow, Conditions 11/29/09.
Big Thompson, Upper Flow, Conditions 11/29/09.


My trip report and additional photos of our climb . . .
bradshawclimbing.com/Bradshaw_...
Wes B.
Joined Sep 14, 2009
279 points
Nov 30, 2009
Bocan
Non- conditions, but Silvertip has some good deals on axes & boots, especially the BD venom and Vipers.

site.mawebcenters.com/silverti...
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
Nov 30, 2009
Looking down towards the creek.
Stairway to Heaven, Thursday the 26th.
Stairway to Heaven, Thursday the 26th.


Bottom of Cataract Creek - Friday the 27th.
Bottom of Cataract Creek - Friday the 27th.


Hayes Creek - Saturday the 29th.
Hayes Creek - Saturday the 29th.
Errinevans
From Chiloquin , OR
Joined Jun 5, 2007
137 points
Dec 2, 2009
Headed to Lake City a couple days ago. The approach to Sherman had little snow and there was a boot track heading in.
The Lake City Ice Park
The Lake City Ice Park


Sherman Climb
Sherman Climb


Crux pitch on The Sherman, running with water
Crux pitch on The Sherman, running with water
Tim Banfield
From Calgary, Alberta
Joined Aug 30, 2009
62 points
Dec 2, 2009
Some good RMNP ice updates on the CMS blog: coloradomountainschool.blogspo... Simon Fryer
Joined Jun 3, 2009
1 points
Dec 4, 2009
New ice conditions for Colorado posted this morning.

There's a new mixed line that just went in at Vail.
As yet Brad Grohusky, one of the first ascentist's hasn't named it but it looks pretty nice. At 100 feet long, protection consists of 8 bolts and a couple of cams.......size unknown. Located in the Firehouse area and just right of the rightmost ice flow. Powerful roof moves take you up and over a roof (crux), protected by a cam. After the rest above the roof continue upwards on thin, technical face moves straight up to the top. Lower off.......

If you check for updated conditions search the areas not the individual climbs section. Thanks.
jack roberts
Joined Oct 30, 2002
62 points
Administrator
Dec 4, 2009
Clear Creek Canyon: dang, looks lean.
Beer Garden - not.
Coors - P1 looks fragile. Let it fill in.

P1 of Coors
P1 of Coors


P2 - in enough to climb. Chains on all 4 bolts are rusty.

P2.
P2.


Mickey's - P1 anemic. Let it fill in. P2 - not seen, may be climbable.

P1 - seemed not as fat as photo appears.
P1 - seemed not as fat as photo appears.


The Ticket - doubtful. Parking area blocked off. Other trail signed as closed?
Leo Paik
From Westminster, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,274 points
Dec 5, 2009
Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.
Now that it's finally gotten cold, I've posted an updated for ice conditions in the park:
climbinglife.com/current-rmnp-...
Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 12, 2001
1,043 points
Dec 9, 2009
In RMNP, Jaws is in pretty fat as is the Crypt (climbed the former yesterday and the latter a week or so ago). The Squid may be good too since it shares a similar aspect but I haven't been up there to check. As has already been noted here, lots of ice in Glacier Gorge is in but Loch Vale area seems to be suffering another thin year as is AMU and the Chasm Cirque area. South facing ice routes seem to be doing fairly well up here in the Park.

Lots of good ice around Vail with Booth Creek stuff starting to come in (as of 12/7/09). I do my best to keep a current (weekly) update of ice/skiing conditions on our company website: totalclimbing.com, if you're interested. The Colorado Mountain School also puts photos of recent trips on their blog which may be helpful. Have fun out there!
acouncell
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 19, 2008
207 points
Dec 9, 2009
Just an addition to Andrew's post. I was up in the Tyndall drainage yesterday and the Squid is not yet in. There is some ice up high but there would be a lot of mixed climbing to get there. I was there to ski but that too needs another 50cm of base to be decent. john bicknell
Joined Nov 13, 2008
0 points
Dec 10, 2009
at the belay on the super classic rewritten
We climbed AMU last Monday (12/7). It is thin. The direct line had a lot of (fun) mixed climbing on pitch 2 and 3. The last pitch had some good ice, thin near the top. If you look for pure ice climbing skip this one but if you're into mixed it's a good climb right now.

Valier
proto
From Falmouth (MA)
Joined Jan 21, 2009
88 points
Dec 11, 2009
Five Finger Discount
Soloed up Three Tiers today. Thick ice the entire way up. If leading, it would take screws. I posted pictures over at the Three Tiers section. Dale D
From Parker, CO
Joined Sep 11, 2007
173 points


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