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2009/2010 Colorado Ice Conditions
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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Nov 23, 2009
good times. <br />

took a tour in to the longs cirque yesterday. Lots of wind up there.
not much ice. dreamweaver looked climbable but more snow then ice. marha's looked the same. Mt lady WA n.face was bare. Nothing on the lower E. face of longs. maybe alexanders? Didnt go that far though.

The N. face of Meeker seemed to have the most ice on it. Excluding dreamweaver and darkstar.

Lots of snow being dropped and moved by wind with not much ice to hack at.


meeker conditions.
meeker conditions.


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By jack roberts
Nov 23, 2009

Went to Vail yesterday. The Designator and Fang are still a long ways off.

There are a couple of new bolted routes in the Amphitheatre area and it looks like another new bolted line going in right of Resurrection. Booth Creek is dry. In Officer's Gulch The Needle aka Candlestick continues to grow and grow. Lots of water to feed the formation of routes but it's just too warm.

On the Telluride Front, Ames Ice Hose is IN and has seen a couple of ascents. First pitch is thin and skinny but if you can sack up, it's climbable.


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By Jason Killgore
From boulder, co
Nov 23, 2009

Climbed AMU on saturday. 2nd pitch is thin in spots, but protects with rock gear. Upper pitch was super fun, with lots of spin drift. Posted a conditions photo to the database. More photos here: zclipped.com/?p=107


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By mattb19
Nov 23, 2009
DNF

I climbed Stariway yesterday and it was good. It was steeper than usual and some of the top outs were a bit spicy. We started early to beat the afternoon heat and were rewarded by being the first party on. The temps are still not really low so start early to avoid thin conditions with warm temps. I was at campbird yesterday afternoon and there is nothing.


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By Ray Hellinger
From Flagstaff, az
Nov 23, 2009

mattb19 wrote:
I climbed Stariway yesterday and it was good. It was steeper than usual and some of the top outs were a bit spicy. We started early to beat the afternoon heat and were rewarded by being the first party on. The temps are still not really low so start early to avoid thin conditions with warm temps. I was at campbird yesterday afternoon and there is nothing.


Soloed it 2 weeks ago and I know of a couple of guys in town that climbed it around that time too. Third pitch was a great little pillar....odd for the climb but great early season conditions.

There are 4 great climbs in up in camp bird. Climbed sneffels right before that last storm and there great lines up by the mine.


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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From Westminster, Colorado
Nov 23, 2009

On Mt. Evans, Ben Collett's The Road is still in. We were the 2nd party on it 11/22/9. The trail and the road aren't dry anymore. It's cold and no visible melting is going on, so it might not last too long. Also, it felt like 5 miles in and 7.5 miles out, so count on an aerobic day.

Across from The Road.
Across from The Road.


was a tiny bit of ice in the sun across from The Road.

Right of The Road.
Right of The Road.


looked like a possible hard person's ascent.


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By Tim Banfield
From Calgary, Alberta
Nov 28, 2009

Climbed at Lincoln Falls today. 30 people were there by the time we were leaving at 1pm. There isn't a lot of ice there. Only the flow on the left which isn't very steep.

Tim

Lincoln Falls today
Lincoln Falls today


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By Kevin Craig
Nov 28, 2009
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd

Blind Assumption on Pikes is still in good shape. Pretty decent amount of ice. Gear is about half screws (13 and 16cm) and half rock gear. Bring a #3 Camalot for the P2 (the way we did it) crux. Approach is hard slab over sugar - make your own assessment. Significant added snow load would make it pretty serious in our estimation.

-edit- and thanks Jack, for the climb and the encouragement!


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By mike bromberg
From Crested Butte, CO
Nov 28, 2009

Made it out to Vail yesterday to mess around near the raquet club...

Conditions seem to be well on their way-> Check out a few pics Here.


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By jack roberts
Nov 29, 2009

Conditions in Vail are improving. There is a new bolted M8 route left of 8mm with a possible new line to the left of that. There is also a new bolted M7 line right of Ressurection.
Spiral Staircase is nice and steep with the Pencil and Eraser formed up behind. The Firehouse is formed and is nice and steep. The Fang and Rigid Designator is along way off.
Frigid Inseminator is climbable. Doctor Delicate is forming real nice. Booth Creek climbs are still dry.

In RMNP Jewel Lake climbs are in, Grace Falls, AMU, NE Face Notchtop, Black Lake climbs, Alexander's are all IN and getting climbed.


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By Brian Tessier
From Lakehood, Colorado
Nov 29, 2009
mixed ice route <br />

Hessie Chimney is out.


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By Daniel Battin
From Green Mtn. Falls, CO
Nov 29, 2009
On Bridelveil

Did Blind Assumption today. Lots of ice. It's getting hooked out and broken up though.

Beginning of the second pitch
Beginning of the second pitch


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2009
Bocan

Drove by Silver Plume today, and its forming. The creek down to I-70 is frozen, but it didn't seem developed enough to climb.


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By Wes B.
Nov 30, 2009
Profile Photo

Photo of the Big Thompson, Upper Flow. . .

Big Thompson, Upper Flow, Conditions 11/29/09.
Big Thompson, Upper Flow, Conditions 11/29/09.


My trip report and additional photos of our climb . . .
www.bradshawclimbing.com/Bradshaw_Climbing/Big_Thompson_Ice.>>>


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Nov 30, 2009
Bocan

Non- conditions, but Silvertip has some good deals on axes & boots, especially the BD venom and Vipers.

site.mawebcenters.com/silvertipmountaincenter/silvertipmount>>>


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By Errinevans
From Chiloquin , OR
Nov 30, 2009
Looking down towards the creek.

Stairway to Heaven, Thursday the 26th.
Stairway to Heaven, Thursday the 26th.


Bottom of Cataract Creek - Friday the 27th.
Bottom of Cataract Creek - Friday the 27th.


Hayes Creek - Saturday the 29th.
Hayes Creek - Saturday the 29th.


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By Tim Banfield
From Calgary, Alberta
Dec 2, 2009

Headed to Lake City a couple days ago. The approach to Sherman had little snow and there was a boot track heading in.

The Lake City Ice Park
The Lake City Ice Park


Sherman Climb
Sherman Climb


Crux pitch on The Sherman, running with water
Crux pitch on The Sherman, running with water


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By Simon Fryer
Dec 2, 2009

Some good RMNP ice updates on the CMS blog: coloradomountainschool.blogspot.com


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By jack roberts
Dec 4, 2009

New ice conditions for Colorado posted this morning.

There's a new mixed line that just went in at Vail.
As yet Brad Grohusky, one of the first ascentist's hasn't named it but it looks pretty nice. At 100 feet long, protection consists of 8 bolts and a couple of cams.......size unknown. Located in the Firehouse area and just right of the rightmost ice flow. Powerful roof moves take you up and over a roof (crux), protected by a cam. After the rest above the roof continue upwards on thin, technical face moves straight up to the top. Lower off.......

If you check for updated conditions search the areas not the individual climbs section. Thanks.


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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From Westminster, Colorado
Dec 4, 2009

Clear Creek Canyon: dang, looks lean.
Beer Garden - not.
Coors - P1 looks fragile. Let it fill in.

P1 of Coors
P1 of Coors


P2 - in enough to climb. Chains on all 4 bolts are rusty.

P2.
P2.


Mickey's - P1 anemic. Let it fill in. P2 - not seen, may be climbable.

P1 - seemed not as fat as photo appears.
P1 - seemed not as fat as photo appears.


The Ticket - doubtful. Parking area blocked off. Other trail signed as closed?


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By Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Dec 5, 2009
Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.

Now that it's finally gotten cold, I've posted an updated for ice conditions in the park:
climbinglife.com/current-rmnp-conditions/current-rmnp-condit>>>


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By acouncell
From Estes Park, CO
Dec 9, 2009

In RMNP, Jaws is in pretty fat as is the Crypt (climbed the former yesterday and the latter a week or so ago). The Squid may be good too since it shares a similar aspect but I haven't been up there to check. As has already been noted here, lots of ice in Glacier Gorge is in but Loch Vale area seems to be suffering another thin year as is AMU and the Chasm Cirque area. South facing ice routes seem to be doing fairly well up here in the Park.

Lots of good ice around Vail with Booth Creek stuff starting to come in (as of 12/7/09). I do my best to keep a current (weekly) update of ice/skiing conditions on our company website: www.totalclimbing.com, if you're interested. The Colorado Mountain School also puts photos of recent trips on their blog which may be helpful. Have fun out there!


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By john bicknell
Dec 9, 2009

Just an addition to Andrew's post. I was up in the Tyndall drainage yesterday and the Squid is not yet in. There is some ice up high but there would be a lot of mixed climbing to get there. I was there to ski but that too needs another 50cm of base to be decent.


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By proto
From Falmouth (MA)
Dec 10, 2009
at the belay on the super classic rewritten

We climbed AMU last Monday (12/7). It is thin. The direct line had a lot of (fun) mixed climbing on pitch 2 and 3. The last pitch had some good ice, thin near the top. If you look for pure ice climbing skip this one but if you're into mixed it's a good climb right now.

Valier


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By Dale D
From Parker, CO
Dec 11, 2009
Five Finger Discount

Soloed up Three Tiers today. Thick ice the entire way up. If leading, it would take screws. I posted pictures over at the Three Tiers section.


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