Steamboat Springs

Short Guidebook available at the Ski Haus in Steamboat.

Butcherknife: really short, can be very greasy, some bouldering right around there too. Easily Top-ropeable

Blob Rock: up by Fish Creek Falls, 5-7 short sport routes, not that great

Rabbit Ears Pass - The Domes: supposed to be the best climbing in the area but I haven't been there. Seasonal closures for bird nesting.

Off of Seedhouse Road:
Several sport crags that have some fun routes but nothing fantastic. Box Canyon - a little bit of a hike but some bigger walls with 1-2 long pitches. Mixture of sport and trad routes.
Mount Zirkle Wilderness - long approaches, some bigger walls, some established routes but probably lots of new route potential. I have only experienced marginal to sketchy rock but haven't explored much.

The above info is only partially correct. Box Canyon is all single pitch and rather chossy. Hole in the Wall Canyon has some longer routes (up to 300 feet, trad), and is up the road from Box Canyon. Expect adventures.

Do'h, Mike is correct. I meant to write about both places but rushed and screwed up.

There appear to be some basalt cliffs 100 feet in height, to the the NW of the Yampa, 0.5 miles below the dam for Stagecoach Reservoir.
Anyone know anything about this area?
Doug Redosh

Doug, those cliffs are on Blacktail Mountain, and could be developed. Below them are two sport climbs on the river, on a quartz-granite type rock. They are about 8 bolts and around 5.10 to 5.11. the bouldering in Sarvis and Silver Creeks is great also. If you live in Steamboat or Routt County, there is plenty of other climbing, it is just a lot of work to get too. Contact me if you are looking for a partner or have any questions.
-matt hartman.

Being born and bred in the 'Boat this is the only climbing I've ever been consistently exposed to, so here are my two cents (only on the areas I've climbed):

Butcherknife: Has: 1) bouldering, 2) top rope and 3) one trad route:
1) The bouldering rock looks like a Flatiron that has been tilted towards the ground instead of away. A pad is recommended as the falls are far and overhanging.
2) There are two rocks that can be top roped: One on the North side and one directly facing it on the South. Each rock has two sets of bolts but are uniquely different:
North rock: Very smooth/slippery. This rock, granted it is very short provides lots of diversity. With a crack, mantle, bear hug (hug the rock and work your feet up), and a crimpy 5.11. Short routes but tons of fun. Also in the sun. :-]
South rock: A different consistency of rock, much more like igneous with tons of holds. Even though there are only two sets of bolts a lot can be climbed within the range of the TR.
3) One route on the North side of the canyon (The Crack 5.9) can be led with trad gear(#2 cam, medium size nut, #1 cam).

Awesome because: Access!!! Right in old town Steamboat Springs which is about a one minute drive from downtown (10 minute walk).
Sucks because: Short routes, mostly TR

Blob rock (Fish Creek Falls)
Offers: 1) TR, 2) sport lead climbing and 3)potential trad
1) Three sets of bolts (one has a redirect) and a tree you can wrap (bring long slings to save your rope some wear). 5.8-5.11 climbing.
2) One bolted route (5.9). Nothing spectacular but it will polish you up on leading
3) With the right trad gear anything can be led!

Awesome because: You can clip bolts! Also not too far of a drive/approach (20-30 minutes from downtown depending).
Sucks because: Very short routes with not a lot of diversity. All kind of the same feel and the moves just aren't very fun.

Seedhouse Crag
offers: 1) TR and 2) lots of bolted routes
3 or 4 bolted routes with more TR bolts. Better quality sport climbing and very reliable.

Awesome because: Very accessible quality sport climbing. The routes are solid, challenging, and fun. 5 minute approach from car.
Sucks because: about a 30 minute drive from downtown Steamboat, short routes (seems to be a theme :-])

So this is everything I've climbed in Steamboat. Obviously it's pretty minimalist but I'm only 16 and am planning to get up to the domes next summer and hopefully explore some of the new stuff Matt and his partner have drawn up. I'll post my opinions on those areas once I've climbed them. But wait!!! There's more...

Overall:
I love Butcherknife Canyon, because it is very accessible and the climbs are better and more diverse than anything on The Blob. If you're willing to make the drive, the Seedhouse crag is awesome because the person who bolted those routes really knew what they were doing. Obviously nothing is super long here and there are only a few routes at each crag but you can easily blow an entire afternoon at each of these places. If I missed anything (i.e. directions) go to Ski Haus located on Highway 40 and pick up the pink guide book... it's money

Most of all.. Be safe, climb hard, and have fun

Sean

The Service Creek Domes have some great climbing on a quality 400' granite dome. Several other smaller rocks 1-2 pitches in area. The area is South of Rabbit Ears Pass-hung out there quite a bit in early '90s. Don't remember the name of the Forest Service road that you took south off of US Hwy 40 near the summit of Rabbit Ears Pass. There's also an excellent bouldering area called Harrison Creek, lower on the pass toward Steamboat.

Just a kind note to all - it is SARVIS Creek (named after the Sarvis berry bushes in the area), not SERVICE Creek. Although this is contrary to some of the signs and maps in the area, one must remember those were written by government agencies :P

Cheers

I've heard of many domes in the Rabbit Ears/Sarvis Creek area. I.e. "Rose Domes" "The Domes" "Sarvis Creek Domes", etc. Are these different areas or do the names reference to one area in general? Thanks!

"Sarvice Creek Dome" and "the Dome" generally refer to the same thing, the biggest most prominent dome. "The Rose Domes" refer to a cluster of crags around a short blob of a dome on the top of a hill. "The dome" (or "The Big Rock" according to the likely FA-Higbee) lies within wilderness and is under falcon closure for most of the season. "The Rose Domes" lie on NFS land. They are all in the same 'area' though.