Darin Lang at the beginning of the Ozone variation...
Description
A very good and nicely exposed alternate finish to Lost in Space, ascending the left margin of the left-facing, left-leaning dihedral which is obvious when you are at the third belay of Lost in Space (right after the 5.4 corner). From this belay, move left 15 feet past an ancient buttonhead to an incipient crack in the slab above. Mantle through the crux to a nice hand jam under the dihedral/roof, move left around the corner and then lieback and face climb all the way to the exit slabs. Alternately, you can take a 5.8 crack to exit from the dihedral about 2/3 of the way up. A long pitch.
Protection
To get to this route, you need to climb the first 3 pitches of Lost in Space. The rack for Lost in Space will suffice, although you should make sure you bring some small wires.
It's sad to think that I might not have that particular view again for a very long time, if ever. By the time those trees grow back, I'll probably need a belay to make it up the wheelchair ramp on the front of my house.
Did this route yesterday and it's great. Classic Platte slab to a nice easy corner. The Crux comes low .10b on the finger seam and eases off to .7 as soon as you pull around the corner. Beautiful
I got humbled today on this variation, that seam is a trip. Took my first lead fall on gear today, learned some things about swinging falls.
I got a small nut in just before the seam petered out and didn't think I could make my way up straight to the roof. I saw a slopping ledge that ran across the face 5-10 feet below the roof, so I tried to hand traverse out to see if I could mantle the ledge and reach the roof. Only a couple minute crimps were on the ledge and basically no feet. I fought a good fight trying to mantle or do anything to not peel off. I was above my last small nut and about 5-10 feet off to the left. Well, I popped off and took the swing plus about a 10-15 footer, bruised my heel really badly and due to the swing rolled and beat my other ankle pretty good. My partner caught me right before I hit the ledge upside down. On the descent, I rolled it again and it felt really close to broken. Don't do that!
Any advice on how to do it the right way? Besided the obvious hint to just keep going straight up.
By Cody Cook From: Colorado Springs, CO Mar 27, 2008
Jason, You got the answer right already. The best way is straight up. I did this yesterday, and actually took a lead fall off the small nut that places well right below the crux mantle. Once you've made the mantle, the final move is to step on the sloping rail that you were using for hands. That rail will be your feet as you traverse left with the roof. The crack under the roof provides ample placements as you move along.
I agree that the crux is the highstep/mantle in the finger crack, but I thought the move to turn the roof and start heading up the dihedral was only slightly easier, with a swing to follow if one comes off. One key - there is a Thank God jug right after the dicey move that completes the turn and opens up easier ground.
What I do is get a crimp on the sloping rail out left with my left hand, reach up the seam with my right to a gaston in the seam (fairly positive) find a small edge with my right foot and press up onto that slooping ledge thing. Once you are in the oh shit position stay really tight and trust your feet and bam your reaching the undercling, plug a 0.75 and enjoy!
This move feels harder than 10b, to me, but considering that you're in the Platte and it's not sustained...close enough.
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