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Starlight 

5.12d

   

FA: Glenn Schuler and Kevin McLaughlin, 1997
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.12+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 2,341 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 2, 2001


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Stefan Doucette making the lunge off the right han...


Description 

Killer project and worth five stars on a three star scale, Starlight, fires smack-dab up the middle of the overhang on amazing features with a relentless demand on power. Edges, side steps, side pulls, and back steps all gun for a Manta Ray flake in the middle of the overhang. It is at least 5.12b just getting here. Pull around the flake on the right and launch a relentless series of crimps on progressively steepening rock. Jugs await below the lip of the roof, and a good thing too, since here again the pro shifts to the camming units. Just imagine tipping Ten-Digit Dialing back 30 degrees and you get the idea. Actually, some of these holds are incut, and a couple of square corners provide some relief and keep the continuity only a couple of letter grades harder than TDD. But what a route. Lowering from the top feels like Rifle, with 40 + feet between you and the wall. Starlight is a dream project on great stone with good moves and excellent gear. I have a bottle of champagne sitting around for the day this goes down.


Protection 

Like most routes on the Wild Overhang Wall, this needs Friends or Camalots, QD, and a 60 m rope.



Photos of Starlight Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin Mclaughlin sticking the Manta Ray move.

Kevin Mclaughlin sticking the Manta Ray move.

Hangdogging on Starlight. Note: I had no bald spot when I started up.  It's that hard.

Hangdogging on Starlight. Note: I had no bald spot...

Glenn Schuler attempting Starlight.

Glenn Schuler attempting Starlight.

Just passing the crux.

Just passing the crux.

Dave Russell in the moment .

Dave Russell in the moment .

Mr. Dave meets the Manta-ray

Mr. Dave meets the Manta-ray

Fully loaded pinky jam. This starts the long crux.

Fully loaded pinky jam. This starts the long crux.

End of the long crux.

End of the long crux.


Comments on Starlight Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 24, 2009
By phil wortmann
From: Manitou Springs, Co.
Mar 2, 2008
rating: 5.12+

This is the best pitch of stone I've ever put hands on. Serious overhang, with incut holds. Not a single rest for eighty feet. I'd say the crux is the dynoish move for the Manta Ray (I pulled on gear). The day I send this clean (if that happens) will be a day to celebrate.

By Josh Janes
Administrator
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.12b

Although this is an awesome route, I personally wish it had been developed as a trad climb. If it was, it would be a Front Range mega-classic along the lines of the Evictor or the Wasp. That said, I'm super thankful to the route developers for sharing this beautiful area and this amazing route in particular!

By Chris Cavallaro
Apr 22, 2008

I wonder how long that Manta ray flake is going to stay?

By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Apr 23, 2008

Regarding the Trad comment, there are hundreds of sport routes that could be done naturally with the right gear and mindset. Thunder Ridge is a very traditional area, and very few routes could be considered sport climbs. As for Starlight while it is true that natural gear could be had in the face features this is a foolish comment considering the route is already bolted. You might as well wish that Thunder Ridge was 15 minutes from BRC. How about you climb it on natural gear and still call it .12b, that would be a proud ascent. Or better yet link up other natural features on the wall and have your own FA.

Starlight is an awesome route as it stands, and while it may be easier for tall folks the rating seems pretty right on for most. Josh, did you actually send before downgrading?

By Chris Cavallaro
Apr 23, 2008

I belayed Josh on this. He got it on his first 'real' go. It was impressive, and I know that if anyone can speak to grades, it is Josh. I have seen him spend a lot more time on climbs at lower grades. Great route!

By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Apr 23, 2008

Awesome job Josh...congrats on a proud send. Let us know when you fire it on natural gear!

By Stefan Doucette
Apr 24, 2008
rating: 5.12+

The great thing about trad climbs, particularly up at Thunder, is that they don't need to be "developed," as Josh mentioned. Just stick the gear and go if you don't like the bolts, they aren't stopping you. And be sure to have someone take pictures, the climb makes for great photography as it is, and the trad element would make it that much more spectacular.

By MrBurns
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Dec 16, 2008

Did this route on Saturday before the snow...Awesome!
One of the best Granite Sport Climbs in Colorado?
Friend and I thought it was as good as Psychotomic, Monastery.

Bit easy for 12d, I'd drop the letter grade and say straight up 5.12.

BUT....what's up with that "old-school" anchor position?
Does anyone else feel the anchors should be at the last bolt?
the 5.6 to the top was fun, but do we need to ruin our ropes for it?
Back cleaning was a pain as well....

By Chris Cavallaro
Dec 16, 2008

All of the routes that I have done here top out too high in my opinion as well. I have noticed this in a lot of new routes lately; that the climb should 'stop' at a certain point, but for extra mileage they go to the top of the wall causing communication and backclean problems.

By Kevin McLaughlin
From: Colorado Springs
Dec 28, 2008

When I establish a route, I follow the most aesthetic line I can. I then put the anchors where the best location for them is in my opinion. I suppose you could lower off from any place you choose if you don't like my choice. As for back cleaning- do you think the reason it is hard might just be that the route is so steep?

By MrBurns
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Dec 30, 2008

Kevin,

The reason the drag was bad is because the anchors are up on the slab.
When anchors end at the lip of the overhang then the rope never touches rock.
Easy up easy down without hurting the rope.

Your ethics of ground-up bolting are awesome!
Climbing to the top of the entire feature is the pure way to go.
But as traffic to the crag increases,
so will the possibility of someone epicing after getting their rope stuck.

Thanks for bolting this route!
just looking towards the future...

Thunder Ridge is awesome.

By Kevin McLaughlin
From: Colorado Springs
Dec 30, 2008

Mr. Burns,
The top two bolts of Starlight have had quicklinks on them for awhile. I guess they are from people lowering off, avoiding the scenario you describe about rope drag. There really is no need for your opening paragraph, I am fully aware of how rope drag works.
I am glad you appreciate the ground up style of our routes. We have done our best to do best, but I cannot see adding anchors halfway up this -or any other wall. I have never seen or heard of anyone getting their rope stuck on this route. Anyone leading this route should be able to handle single pitch ropework. This particular route is worth a bit of effort.
You are quite right about Thunder Ridge being awesome. Enjoy.

By phil wortmann
From: Manitou Springs, Co.
Feb 12, 2009
rating: 5.12+

There are two simple solutions to your rope drag problem.

1- back up the bolt at the lip past the manta ray with a bomber cam, and top rope from there.

2- back up the third bolt above the manta ray with a triple length runner around a bomber horn. TR from there.

The last climber simply climbs to the top anchors and cleans the route.

By blakeherrington
From: Bellingham, WA
Jun 23, 2009

Does anyone know how stable or safe the flake is? We were afraid to get on the route today because it looks detached at all edges, and appears to be a KEY jug on the route. The wall is too steep to inspect it while rapping off other climbs.

Today I backed up the top bolt of the hard/continuous climbing with a purple sling and locker around a monster horn.

By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Jun 24, 2009

The Manta ray flake is safe.....it seems to look worse than it is. It get's dyno'ed for pretty regularly.