By Jay van Sam From: Denver CO Aug 27, 2007 rating: 5.12
Woooo! Maybe I just didn't bring my slab skills with me yesterday, but this felt awfully stiff for .11c/d! Terribly thin in sections, and definitely requires good slab skills. I would probably put this at .12a, it felt harder than Liquid Acrobat - at least that climb has holds. Anyways, may have just been a bad day for me, but I would say this is 12a.
Just a little constructive criticism, a bit more information would be helpful in the description. For example, listing how many bolts are on this climb would be helpful, (I believe 4?). This line is in between Steppenwolf and Gobble Up, yes it's the only bolted line but the first bolt is not obvious. Also, I can't even dog this one on TR so I'm assuming that 12a must be a pretty fair rating.
By phil wortmann From: Manitou Springs, Co. Jun 19, 2008 rating: 5.12-
I would agree that the route feels harder than Liquid Acrobat. I think over the years some of the feldspar crystals have become dislodged (perhaps between the 1st and 2nd bolt), making the moves on the route harder. Or maybe it was always that hard?
By Pete Gallagher From: Manitou Springs, CO Apr 25, 2009
Bogs, Are you sure? Did you see a hole or a chopped stud. The first bolt on this route has always been pretty high, about 20ft off of the deck - right at the start of the serious climbing. A friend of mine lives up in the Turkey Rock Estates - I'll ask him to run up and check to see if the bolt really is missing.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Jun 8, 2009
You can get gear before the first bolt- a green alien or a TCU or maybe a nut. A #1 camalot is nice for the horizontal crack up high. Finishing directly over the last bolt without using the adjacent cracks seemed really difficult, maybe harder than the first crux (after bolt 1).