This route is located on Turkey Tail. It starts behind a large pine tree, about 40' right of Whimsical Dreams. The first crux involves a short, but very burly lieback about 15'off the ground with slippery footholds. Make sure you place good gear. Above that, easy finger locks reach a sloping ledge. From here, I highly recommend the bolted arete, 4 bolts lead you through typical arete moves. Resist the temptation to dive back into the crack when the arete hits the roof. Stay on the face until you can reach a good hand jam formed by a chockstone. One hand-sized piece gets you to the anchors, where you can rap 70' to the ground. The 2 star rating applies to the arete, the crack section is nothing to write home about, and I thought it felt much harder than the 11a rating the guidebook gives it.
Protection
Thin gear for the start, QDs if you want to do the bolted arete variation, otherwise some wider gear for pulling the roof.
I guess it's the same, if Wudd... was the first route on the most impressive piece of granite in the world, and if the bolted arete is a manufactured route that was never finished.
Believe it or not, it's actually possible to admit that a bolted variation with great rock, great position and great movement is superior to a pidgeon-infested, guano filled wide crack without instantly bursting into flames for the sin of being a sport climbing sympathizer.
The 70s were almost 40 years ago people!!
By Beached Nuts From: Bermuda bitches Apr 13, 2008
Well, the bird shit filled OW isn't bad climbing either. Don't be a hater.
By England From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 16, 2009
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