BETA PHOTO: The route follows the prominant crack in the cente...
Description
Located on the south face of Turkey Rock, this route starts to the right of the bolted arete (In Style, Out of Fashion). This is in the lowpoint of the right side of the rock. Similar climbing to that of Vanishing Point with good fingers in the seams and feet where you need them. Start up incipient cracks until a step left is necessary. Reach for the handcrack, and it's over. 70' to a chain anchor.
Protection
TCUs, RPs, and #2 Camalot for the upper hand crack.
A larger RP will protect the crux very well, and a slightly larger nut can back this up a couple feet below. Very good climbing, but the difficulty is not sustained. Lots of moves in the 10 range with maybe 2 moves at easier 11.
By Chris Dawson From: Boulder, CO Sep 22, 2004 rating: 5.11b
Hey, it's Eldo on granite. RPs or .4 in cam at crux, and it's helpful to save a 3/4 in piece (yellow Alien) for the start of the handcrack mentioned above. Really fun little pitch, three stars is pushin' it.
I thought this was easier than VANISHING POINT. Protection is better than it looks from the ground. The purple Metolius TCU is your friend!
By Steven Lucarelli From: Glenwood Springs, CO May 8, 2006 rating: 5.11a
This is a great route with good pro as long as you have small cams. Nice balancy moves through the crux, one of the best short climbs I've done in the Platte.
You can lead this climb with stoppers only and have gear over your head for nearly every move. The crux in particular, where the climbing is thinnest, takes perfect bottleneck wires.
By Allen Hill From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine Apr 26, 2007 rating: 5.10c
Bryan told me it was named this because of the amount of chalk they used. They were mortified by the white mess they had made. Anyhow another example of how priorities have changed in the climbing world. It's a great pitch but it's not 5.11.
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