Brain Cramps climbs more or less straight up to th...
Description
On Turkey Rocks, this route is about 75 feet to the right of Vanishing Point, and can be started in a couple ways. The guide book topo wasn't too clear. But, you start up one of two cracks that both lead to a slightly overhanging section with an old piton. The left crack goes right around a small tree (about a foot tall), and up without disturbing the tree! The right crack goes up a r-facing dihedral, and moves left. Crank through the section after the piton. The rest of the route is a wider section which is more chimney than OW, but still a little grunting was going on... Fun, fairly short pitch.
Protection
Standard rack, a couple wider pieces perhaps. I took up to a 4.5 cam...
I think Joe's description is incorrect for the start, although I'm no Turkey Rocks expert. I think Joe is describing two possible starts for The Eastern Front, 5.8. Immediately right of Straw Turkey is a short crack that leads to a small overhang. Right of that, on a blunt arete is another nice looking crack. Just right of that arete is a right facing corner. The second crack and corner both lead to the left edge of a large roof. I believe that's what Joe is describing, and that's Eastern Front. Brain Cramps is a little further left. Eastern Front and Brain Cramps converge at the wide crack. See the photos I've posted.
Turkey Rock
RSS Feed
