The start of this climb is almost directly below the high point of Squat rock and is to the right of Lichen or Not.
Start in a wet and crumbly right facing corner. Climb up and left to the crux move up on to the slab, around the left side of the roof. Ascend the slab and crack in a large left facing dihedral to a large flake on the left. Traverse left, using the flake for hands, across the slab. Finish at a tree with a couple of slings, same as for Lichen or Not. Alternatively, you can avoid the slab/ flake traverse and continue straight up to a short but steep wide hand crack to the top (5.10).
By Matt Nelson From: Honolulu, HI Jan 24, 2006 rating: 5.8+
I liked this route but the rope drag can be crappy. The route actually doesn't take the flake to the left but continues up through a .10b offwidth. The flake to the left is called Di's Escape. But which ever way you choose it is still a good route.
By Mark Nelson From: Coniferous, CO Feb 14, 2006 rating: 5.8
Another thing to add to Di's Escape (typically used to avoid the OW - not vice versa), extendable slings & back-cleaning will be helpful to avoid a mini-epic as the rope can get stuck in a small constriction while traversing. Very committing 5.8 move to start the route, but not a sustained route (overall 5.7); thanks to Dave for talking me through this when I started trad'ing.
Original line through the .10b OW is way way physical.
By Christopher Jones From: Bailey, Colorado Jun 2, 2006 rating: 5.10b
I found out why it is called Branded. If you follow the crack straight up (the way you are supposed to)the 10b offwidth will leave its mark on you. I had to have my partner take over after several tries. The offwidth on the very top is pretty tricky to get started in. Good pro up to 4.5 Camalot.
RSS Feed
