Dad Speaks Parley 

FA:  Ed Schmitt and Ben Schmitt New Route:  Yes Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.11- [details] Length:  1 pitch, 35 feet Season:  Spring-Fall Views: 380 page views Submitted By: Ben Schmitt on Jun 15, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Bolted and sent on Father's Day, this new route is a brilliant moderate addition to the Spray Wall. The route follows the right-facing dihedral left of Randy Speaks Farsi, and then busts out underclings, crimps, and the final juggy roof via three cruxes. It is recommended to stick clip the first bolt, as the slab crux right off the ground is tenuous, and there was no good place to put the bolt where it would not be in the way. Destined to be a classic....

Location 

On the right side of the Spray Wall amphitheatre, this is the 3rd route to the left of the edge of the wall. It follows the right-facing dihedral in the middle of the wall up increasinly overhanging climbing to a scoop, and then out the steep roof left of Randy Speaks Farsi.

Protection 

Five bolts to a chain anchor. There are biners at the top for easy lowering, don't steal them.