3 bolted face routes under the upper arch. Good face climbing on big holds. Some of the best sport climbs on the dome.
Per S. Green, "the middle route is named Escorndido (5.9+). The left route is Junior Jules Doinks a Digit (5.10a) and is a great 2-pitch line. The right route is Innerspace Arch (5.9+). The far left easy slab route is Most Toppest (5.5)."
Location
Hike past Guide's Route to the obvious arch with 3 bolted lines and two anchors.
I climbed the left and center route yesterday. Both felt like they were in the .9 range. We didn't have time for the right route, but it looked a touch easier. I haven't climbed in a while, so the grades might be off a bit. Just left of the arch was a 5.1 bolted route for beginners, felt like Sunshine Slab. Once at either anchor, you can walk across a ledge and set up the other anchor.
The middle route is named Escorndido (5.9+). The left route is Junior Jules Doinks a Digit (5.10a) and is a great 2-pitch line. The right route is Innerspace Arch (5.9+). The far left easy slab route is Most Toppest (5.5).
By Pete Gallagher From: Manitou Springs, CO May 27, 2007
Actually, Inner Space Arch (FA Williams/Gallagher, 1979) followed the center of the face under the arch, with very sparse pro and no bolts, then pulled the roof and continued to the top of the dome. We rated it 5.9 R.