This route takes the prominent line out fixed chain quickdraws on the 45 degree overhang next to the big boulder.
Start by preclipping the first bolt (this is absolutly essential for safety, or you will go flying into and break your back on the boulder at the base of the climb, laying down crashpads is also a good idea). The crux (which gone through numerous evolutions,changing the grade from .13b, to .13d) is right below the first bolt, consisting of some technical dynamic trickery with tiny sharp crimps. This is a V8 dyno to a glued on ear, which seemes to alternate from glued on one year to off another, right now it is glued on. After that its two huge feet cutting dynos out right to a technical dropknee move, then bust the final V6 slopey/crimpy/undercling crux over the lip to the anchors.
NOTE: almost this entire route is manufactured, and I hesitated putting it on here because of all of the flack the route would receive. So please take it as it is, and understand it was put up in an era when "experimental" new routing was accepted.
Very powerful and dynamic, fun moves.
Location
On the left 45 degree wall above the huge boulder, this route takes fixed chain quickdraws out its right side.
The start without the glued feature is V9/10 and V7ish with it. I remember when(Ian) had it on his mantle, when it fell off initially :)Brett Green and I dug the route in each state....
Notable figures in the climbing world who have done this route are suggesting this route may be 5.14a with the hold glued on, so who knows what the grade is now??? If anyone has been on this thing, please post a grade, it would nice to get a feel for what this really is....
By Ian Spencer-Green From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 14, 2009 rating: 5.13c/d
Yes, as Jared stated I pulled off the original undercling, which definitely increased the grade to what I felt was 13c/d range. The route is extremely fun for being almost entirely chipped. As Ben put it, you have to take it for what it is, for I in no way whatsoever support chipping. It probably would of been a good 5.14+ if it never was chipped. Also Ben, the first ascent of the Dark Art should be attributed to Dan Durland. As I always understood it the original name was "The Dark Art", not "The Dark Arts". This should be changed on the listing. I don't know about the grade? Didn't the gaston flake you fire to break some?
Yeah, apparently the flake you guys used to use back in the day to gaston to is broken, because now you have to do this crazy throw to the little bit thats left of the flake. Half the people who have done this recently think the thing is 14a, while the others think it's 13d. I think it all comes down to a height issue. Thanks for the info.
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