Start in a chimney near the center of the dome, just left of Ben Dover (I think). The prominent feature is 10' of perfect tight-hands crack near the top of the first pitch. Belay at a good ledge. Either finish up the crack above (unknown rating) or make your way up and right with a number of possibilities to belay at trees (5.5-5.7). Descend off the back of the dome.
By Peter Spindloe Administrator From: North Vancouver, BC Oct 14, 2002
An interesting climb. My partner, who led the whole thing in one pitch, didn't like the look of the dihedral on the second pitch so she traversed 10ft. right and went up a thin crack. The protection was solid although one move was a little interesting. I slotted my baby and ring fingers into a small crack as it was too tight for anything else. Despite that, the move was still no more than 5.9. I'd be curious to hear about the dihedral (which is how the route is described in the guide books).
I (michael) absolutely loved this climb! The belay station at the big ledge was a bit difficult to find good places for solid pro AND keeping the rope line straight, but definitely doable. I didn't go up the direct dihedral either, but going up to the right and under the roof was a great option. Fun moves!
Fun route. mostly 5.6 climbing with a 5ft. section of 5.8 near the top. Felt easier than [Pine Away] to me.
By Mike Ben From: silverthorne/denver May 21, 2006
Climber this yesterday in one pitch. Thought it was mostly 5.6 climbing a little weird at the final moves, probably the only spicy section on the climb. Fun climb though. Strange this is a 5.8 and the roof bypass to the left is a 5.7. Felt like it was maybe the other way around.
Had no idea what this was when we started, but it looked fun. And it was! The chimney is easy, with the a semi-technical crack above it which can be bypassed on the right face if need be. My leader was supposed to lead P2 as I wasn't feeling too well, but wanted to bypass the flake right above us as it looked tough. I wanted to give it a shot, and it was a major toughy compared to P1! It protected great with a #1 Camalot shoved up there (I'm 6' and it was still a stretch to shove it in). Fell 3 times before pulling it. Followed by some smaller technical moves above it. P2 definitely gets a higer rating than P1 if you take the direct route. Giving it a 5.8 for the by-passability.
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