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Cynical Pinnacle

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Cynical Pinnacle

Submitted By: John McNamee on Feb 17, 2006
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
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The Cathedral Spires are closed from March 1 to July 31 for raptor nesting.

Cynical Pinnacle


Description 

Cynical Pinnacle is probably the most popular of the crags in the Cathedral Spires of the South Platte. It's prominent south-facing prow attracts the eye for miles. This spire hosts a number of fine routes. The ever popular Center Route gains the greatest lines & waits. However, Wunsch's Dihedral is an excellent sustained line for the intermediate to advanced crack climber. Turf Spreader draws the eye, but requires a pumpy roof to gain entry to its beautiful upper crack. The Prayer Book was once featured in a Jeff Lowe video. Breashear's Crack is a fun test piece for the advanced.


Getting There 

Walk uphill up one of the various of the trails ascending from the North Fork of the South Platte River. You may pass various abandoned relics from a different era along the way.


Descent 

Double ropes are necessary to rappel down the S face.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cynical Pinnacle:
Hand Job (aka West Face)   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II   
Hand Job Direct   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Center Route   5.9+     Trad, 3 pitches   
Class Act   5.11b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Turf Spreader   5.11b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   
Wunsch's Dihedral   5.11     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III   
Browse More Classics in Cynical Pinnacle

Featured Route For Cynical Pinnacle
Unknown climber (who works for Warren Miller) on The Center Route of the Cynical Pinnacle. Photo by Tony Bubb, Maybe ~1999.

Center Route 5.9+  CO : South Platte : ... : Cynical Pinnacle
This route is three pitches of some of the best crack climbing around. I've heard it called the best 5.9 in the state. The first pitch is a hand/finger crack where you can use a little lie-backing. Belay at slings.The second pitch is the crux, it's a long pitch that leads up a perfect hand crack over a couple little bulges. Every jam is bomber, but, it is pretty sustained. Set a hanging belay once the crack is about to widen up.The third pit...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Cynical Pinnacle Slideshow Add Photo
It is usually climbable during the winter months, you may have to wait a couple of days for the snow to melt.

BETA PHOTO: It is usually climbable during the winter months, ...

The C.P. from the approach as seen in 1996. Photo by Tony Bubb.

The C.P. from the approach as seen in 1996. Photo ...

The C.P. from a little closer on the approach. 'Wunch's Dihedral' and 'The Center Route' are pretty plainly visible from here.

The C.P. from a little closer on the approach. 'Wu...

Cynical Pinnacle is the spire on the right hand skyline.

Cynical Pinnacle is the spire on the right hand sk...

CYNICAL PINNACLE TOPO<br />

CYNICAL PINNACLE TOPO


Couple of parties on the Prayer Book Feb. 24, 08.<br />

Couple of parties on the Prayer Book Feb. 24, 08.


West side of Cynical Pinnacle, taken from Sunshine Wall, Feb '09.

West side of Cynical Pinnacle, taken from Sunshine...

2nd pitch of the great Center Route. Picture taken by Amy Haessly.

2nd pitch of the great Center Route. Picture taken...


Comments on Cynical Pinnacle Add Comment
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By Monty
From: golden
Feb 15, 2009

Just wanted to mention that you can get down from the summit with a 70m rope. From the shoulder on top of Center Route, run across the wall to the top of the handcrack on Turf Spreader (bolt and fixed nut). Then to the next bolted anchor on the slab and so on.

By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Feb 16, 2009

A 60m rope works fine for this, just knot your ends when you penji right to the third pitch anchor of Turf Spreader.

By slim
Feb 16, 2009

Haven't ever done it with a 60, but it sounds nervewracking. Probably want to be careful if doing so.

By Guy Humphrey
From: Fort Collins CO
Feb 16, 2009

A 60m works great for the descent. The last rap will put you on the ledge, which is part of the 4th class approach.

The summit register and pin needs to be replaced. There are only a couple blank pages left.