South Platte

Here is link from the Forest Circus that gives some fire closure information:http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/news/pike_opening.htmThe best I can extract from it is that the Pike National Forest is open for recreational uses except for the area indicated on the map, which seems to cover just about all of the climbing in the SPlatte. Some of the southernmost areas may still be open, but I'd have to do some checking to be sure of that.

We did Bishop Jaeggers on the Dome a couple weeks back, and my partner lead. It was all there, but, you wouldnt want to fall off some of those spicier runouts! Topographical Oceans looks nice as well. The bolts are older, and far enough apart to be concerning.One interesting thing was that the rock seems bigger than it looks as it is less than vertical, and keeps going... Staying on your toes seemed to be the key!

Turkey Rocks, Sheeps Nose, and Helens Dome/Acid Rock complex are all open to climbing. The only restriction is that you must park only in designated parking areas - signed with a "P". The current problem with Turkey Rocks access is that Forest Rd 360 (Cedar Mtn Rd) is currently closed and gated at the intersection with Stump Rd. This means that it is about a 2.5 mile walk (each way) to legally access the rocks. Be aware that many hazards exist in these areas, including widowmaker snags, burned out stump holes, and unstable boulders, especially on the descent route on the south side of Sheeps Nose. A Forest Service sawyer crew dropped most of the really dangerous hazard trees on the approaches and at the base of Turkey Rocks, Turkey Tail and Sheeps Nose this week, but a good wind storm could still bring trees down unexpectedly. Flash flooding is also still a threat on the approch to Turkey Rock (crossing Turkey Creek), and Helen's Dome (Goose Creek). Salvage logging operations are ongoing on Denver Water and State lands around Cheeseman Reservoir, as well on FS lands adjacent to roads to remove hazard trees. This timber is being transported out the 9-J Rd and Stump Rd down through West Creek - Watch Out for these guys!

The Forest Service is currently conducting a roads analysis for the entire burn area to determine which roads will remain and which will be closed. I would strongly encourage SPlatte climbers to participate in this process when the analysis is released for public comment and review, sometime around the middle to end of June. The Roads Analysis document, as well other proposed actions in the burn area are available on the Hayman Recovery web-site. The link is http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/hayres/index.htm

Be forewarned that approaching Turkey Rocks from the Turkey Rocks Ranch Estates is NOT recommended unless you have specific permission from a local land owner. Apparently, they are getting pretty ticked-off about people parking below Turkey Tail.

The platte rocks are outstanding. Despite the hayman fire and the idiodic bolt wars. I have climbed there over ten years. I have read many of the comments as to the guide book, and I suggest that if you have a problem finding areas and lack the paitence to seek them out, I suggest you head up to Eldo or Clear creek canyon for roadside climbs. Enjoy your time in the platte. My opinion is you deffinately have to stop at the Bucksnort for brews and big talk afterwords.

I just got off the phone with a Ranger from the South Platte District. Looks like no camping in the "nice" places at S.P. Most established campgrounds are still closed, save a few such as the Lone Rock and Platte River campgrounds. They're open, but likely to be busy on the weekends. They're pretty far from the fun rocks anyway, so who needs them??? She encouraged dispersed camping, which means anywhere you want. No fire restrictions, but watch out for rains. They COULD bring about floods due to the lack of vegitation right now. Camp high... Also, since Cathedral is closed until the end of July, Turkey seems to be the most viable option for climbing. To get there at this time, park at the intersection of 360 and 68. DO NOT PARK in the subdivisions down the road. You'll get in trouble. The Ranger said to bring a mountain bike and ride the last mile and a half in with your gear. That's what most people do apparently. Hope this helps! Any more questions, you call them yourself at 303-275-5610.~Wm

There are a couple more guidebooks for this area besides the 'Climbing Colorado'. South Platte guide written by Peter Hubbel (chockstone press) Includes much more rocks and routes. But bewares of Peter's obvious drug habit during the writing of this book. My partner and I have found many flaws in the info of this book during our south platte travels. All in all it's the most comprehensive guide to this great area.

ps. Many restrictions due to fires have been lifted but be carefull of flash floods during the spring!

Dont be so presumptuous, coward, about the drug habit accusations. How about YOU try to put together a guide book of the entire South Platte, with no errors!? The splatte is still pretty wild, and sometimes tricky to get around. Good thing that there is plenty of beta on areas and climbs that Pete chose to leave out to keep bitchy climbers like yourself away.

I was not registered at the time I left the previous comment about the south Platte guide book info. I apologize for the "drug habit" and I appreciate your view that some info should be omitted to keep "bitchy "climbers out of the Platte before it gets too populated. I feel the same way but, sometimes we have to ask ourselves which is better in a guide, wrong info or no info.There is no doubt in my mind that Peter has much more knowledge of the Platte and I don't dispute the fact that a guidebook is a huge undertaking and mistakes will be made. But when the maps to many climbs are blatantly wrong, it causes problems. There is also an older guidebook that Mr. Hubbel was also a part of that in a lot of cases has better info. The purpose of my message was to inform others of the existence of the guide and to warn them to be careful because there are flaws. With this said,just let me say that I would have never have been able to find some of the best rock I have ever pulled down on without this guide. Darren, lighten up man, it's just rock climbing! Sincerely, "The bitchy little coward" aka Mike b.

Beware! The Colorado Rock Climbs guide book has a lot of bunk info about the South Platte area--very easy to get lost (while driving) in and around rampart road. Get the area specific guide book, or better yet, get a local with some knowledge. Also, there is a lot of crumbly/ loose rock in the area, so bring a helmet and some competence.

South Platte Climber's Guide error - On page 190 of this guide, which shows an overview of the Jackson Creek area (North Rampart Range Road) Road 502 (Jackson Creek Road) is closed on the SOUTH side at the junction of Road 503. In other words, to get to climbs 10-19 (Jackson Creek Dome, etc) approach from the NORTH side, (possibly via Road 507) NOT THE SOUTH as suggested in the book. The gate on the north side is permanent, however it is a lot closer than hiking from the south. On the other hand, to get to Devil's Head, Taj Mahal, Flat Top Dome, etc. it is easiest to approach from the south. - Daryl

Seem strange that a area (11 Mile Canyon) that has the South Platte River running through it...is not in the South Platte area.

Elevenmile is now part of the South Platte region on this site.

Maybe add Elevenmile Reservoir to the South Platte too?

Elevenmile Res. is now also part of the South Platte region.

I am looking for someone to climb with on July 29th and /or July 30th in the Elevenmile area. I am a safe climber that leads 5.9 bolted routes and dabbling in 5.7 trad. Will follow anything or at least try. I would love to do The Staircase as it has been a couple of years since I last did this route. I also am a knowledgable and safe belayer.