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Goldrush Area
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Americana Arete 
Five Card Draw 
Silver Stage 

Silver Stage 

5.10c

   

FA: Rex Wolters (and others?)
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III
Season: Summer & Early Fall
Views: 380 page views

Submitted By: Lee Frazer on Jun 11, 2009


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BETA PHOTO: Start of first pitch.


Description 

Great climb on wide slab/ramp RIGHT of the Gold Rush ice climb. Well protected. Beautiful location. Some loose rock on pitches 3 & 4. (I don't suggest climbing under other parties.)

Silver Stage starts on right side of slab; goes for 3 pitches up slab; fourth pitch works its way up buttress above slab.

Pitch 1 - 5.10c

Pitch 2 - 5.8/9

Pitch 3 - 5.8/9 R
Goes up Class 3-4 gully (2 bolts) to short 10' section of 5.8/9 (2 bolts, 1 spinner) to large car size ledge - anchor's on the right side of ledge.

Pitch 4 - 5.8/9
From ledge, climb traverses right for 20', then up dihedral for 100'. Exposed and beautiful. Loose rock in spots.

Descent: 3 rappels.

Given the altitude and remoteness, this climb should not be treated like a sport climb at the local 50' crag:
- Temps can change quickly up here, so dress accordingly.
- Loose rock is prevalent on pitches 3-4. Therefore, helmets are a must.


Protection / Equipment 

Well-bolted. 12 draws. Helmets. Two 60 meter ropes. Layers for temperature changes. Climb is in a tight canyon w/ limited sun.



Photos of Silver Stage Slideshow Add Photo
View from top of first pitch.

View from top of first pitch.

Climb starts from where I'm standing.  The 5.9 is on the other side of the bulge behind Jeff. (Background: Looking down the canyon towards Eureka. The intermittent waterfalls which form the classic ice climb, Stairway to Heaven, can be seen across the valley.)

Climb starts from where I'm standing. The 5.9 is ...

Jeff following second pitch. Animas River below.

Jeff following second pitch. Animas River below. ...

View of Gold Rush climbs. Note the left-leaning ramp (in the left half of the photo). Silver Stage (600') starts on the right side of the ramp and finishes on the steep buttress at the tip top of the photo.

BETA PHOTO: View of Gold Rush climbs. Note the left-leaning ra...

Looking down at the second pitch.

Looking down at the second pitch.


Comments on Silver Stage Add Comment
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By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Aug 27, 2009

The first two pitches are the best and most popular. They can be linked together with a little simul-climbing.