This is a stellar, burly route. I love goading young, aspiring trad climbers to get onto it. If you're in the canyon and a short, napolean-complex guy with male-pattern-baldness tries to talk you into climbing it, then it's probably me.
Location
Just past the Virgin painting, where the canyon makes a bend to the right. This is the wide crack formed by the large egg-shaped bolder leaning against the main canyon wall.
Protection
Gear to #4 Camalot. I know it looks like #3s, but trust me!
Is this that steep, laser-cut corner crack? If so, I got on this thing thinking it was wide hands- I ended up getting worked trying to do do kick-throughs/ bumping handstacks up the whole thing. OW all the way. Bring a (new) #5 Camalot for the top. Hightops, pants, long sleeve shirt highly recomended. Six stars.
By Scott Beguin From: Los Alamos, NM Jun 1, 2009 rating: 5.10+
Awesome route!!! Bring Camalots: 1-#2 with a shoulder runner, 3-#4, 1-#5, and 1-#6. One of the best ticks anywhere.
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