This route climbs the spectacular rust-colored wall immediately right of the Virgin painting.
This is a really great route for the grade. Unlike many of the hard routes in Penitente, it is not just a one move wonder, but it demands sustained effort all the way to the chains. I found one hard/reachy move getting to the 2nd bolt (will be no problem for taller people), then generally very consistent difficulty to the very top. I would consider this to be the 2nd must-do route after "Bullet the Blue Sky".
There is at least one really obvious enhanced pocket on this route which is a real shame. From what I could see, it was another case of pointless chipping, as the hold in question seemed to be just fine without the "improvement". Thinking back, there were probably other holds as well, but I didn't scrutinize every one. For the record, Bob D was not the chipper, it was some AC.If you are one of those who refuses to climb on chipped routes, then in this case, it will be your loss, as this route is really worthwhile, despite the cowardly act of some numbnutz.
As for the grade? I thought it was quite a bit harder than "Bullet the Blue Sky". The moves are easier than "Color of Devotion", but more sustained...so all-in-all, slightly easier.
By chris deulen From: Portland, ME May 30, 2005 rating: 5.12c
This didn't seem nearly as hard as Bullet The Blue Sky. The last couple moves to pull over the lip (up left to a very poor crimp, followed by a very poor slopey mono) were the crux for me. Definitely easier than Colors.
By chris deulen From: Portland, ME Jun 25, 2005 rating: 5.12c
...As for the grade, I would still have to disagree. I found two demanding moves towards the top (getting to the jug, and pulling past it). And these, though different than the type required for Bullet, were not as hard in my opinion. I certainly don't think it merits 13, and I certainly don't think the moves can be compared to Colors (which is considerably more difficult). All in all, a really fun, crimpy, and sustained route.
In general, people are not very good at aretes because they don't get much practice. At the risk of sounding like a pompous ass: I have done a bunch of aretes because I climb a lot at Smith Rock, Oregon. In the context of Smith, Bullet the Blue Sky is not that hard! In my opinion, "A Virgin No More" is quite a bit harder than "Bullet", but that's just me.
All that really matters is the star rating, and I think it deserves 3. There aren't many routes in the canyon that are better.
Yeahhhh, you go Bobby D. Spewing was it? Wow, didn't realize I was spewing, nor did I realize that commenting on the small length of the routes in Penitente would insult you personally. It's not your fault that the cliffs there are short. After a little research I see that you bolted a lot of lines there. My remarks made were prior to knowing of your involvement in Penitente. All I was trying to do was help you in your responses so we "the public" don't have to read the same thing twice. By the way, good job on not repeating what I said, it made your response much more enjoyable to read. Oh, and also I can think of at least 4 famous boulder problems that are taller than most of Penitente Canyon, and get bouldered often enough by people to warrant my remark before. There's something we all can agree on and that's the fact that Crash Pads are changing what people are bouldering these days, and I know they weren't around when you bolted Penitente. With time, things change, and that's what's happened here. Isn't it funny how things that were once cool no longer are due to changes we can't prevent. Let me know if you don't understand what I'm saying here.
Yeah, I guess that does leave me out pads or no pads. Especially since I don't even boulder or own a pad. I'm just saying that a lot of the routes I've climbed at P.C. seem to finish right after they start. Why do you have such a problem about this opinion. I know I'm not the first one to express this about P.C. I lived in that area for a number of years and haven't been back since, maybe I should revisit it. Would that make you feel better if I went back there climbed then got on this site and sang praises?
By the way, according to this site I counted 14 climbs 5.10 and under and 13 climbs 5.11 and over. That makes the majority of the climbs there 5.10 range. Looks like I'm not left out after all Bobby D., especially since half the climbs between 5.11 and easy 5.12 are one move wonders off the ground and 5.9 to the anchors. Maybe I will go back, and with a crash pad, and do the first ten feet of almost every climb there, that way I will have done the crux's of what is apparently your crown jewel.
By brent armstrong From: Closer to RR than the Strip Oct 20, 2005
Mike and Bob,
Layoff each other...lol.
No way Virgin No More is a boulder problem....no way, no how. Will it ever be soloed? Probably yes, maybe it already has. I would think Bullet is a much more likely candidate for a 3rd [class] send, lower crux, easier up high.
VIrgin is still HARD at the top.
While much of Colorado enjoys slagging Bob, many of the routes around the state that the minions and masses clip up are Bob's work....Shelf, Penitente about a 1000 others. Most are worthy.
I've spent maybe a total of 2/3 weeks in Penitente over the years...seems like there is always some 5.10 climbing to do with folks that don't yank on those little pockets so well.
On a personal note i had the most trouble I've had anywhere climbing with my new foot here, damn tiny recessed pockets.
Nice setting and good free camping last time I checked. Good for dogs, snakes, girls and boys.
I'll play nice. I can't believe all of this has come out of my comment about the fact that short bolted slabs at Lumpy would be better saved for a place like Penitente. I have climbed on many of Bob's routes throughout the state.....(It's kind of hard not to, there's so many) and enjoyed some of them very much. I'm not knocking P.C. that's some of the finest edging I've found anywhere. I don't even know how the Virgin climb became a part of this because I never mentioned it in my previous remark it just somehow was brought up. The point of this whole thing is...people have different tastes and different climbing styles, [therefore] they will have different opinions about different areas. Last I checked that wasn't offensive or wrong. Basically here's the moral to all of this....If you can't handle people having different opinions than yourself, then maybe you should reconsider placing bolts that will last for 20-30 years, because over such a large time frame there's going to be a lot of opinions created especially on the more popular climbs. Since Bob has bolted most of this state I'll be sure to reference some place like Montana next time so that I don't offend anyone.
That's the whole point I wasn't slagging on anyone. I was just saying that short bolted lines are better saved for short bolted areas. No slagging and no posing meant towards you there Bobby.
Hey Bobby D. Glad we could come to a mutual understanding, and I would like to get out some time as well, it would be good for my climbing and perhaps push my number grade up a little climbing with someone stronger than me.
Not trying to resurrect an old discussion, but I just stumbled upon it and can't resist. Crash pads or not, falling from here would leave one hell of a mess.
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