This climb is located just a wee wander up from the virgin area nad is identified by a sequence of cracks each offset a couple feet. Indeed, the crux is changing from one crack to the other as the first peters out. For a moderate route (although a stout 5.8), this is about as good as it gets at penitente and is a great reason to haul gear in. I placed mostly nuts, a small one at the crux. Super fun and different when your tips are spent from pulling on thin crimpers.
Protection
Nuts and cams to 2" plus some quickdraws or slings for the bolt anchor.
A mediocre climb with a poorly protected crux that is hard for the grade. Not recommended for a budding 5.8 leader. The crux is pulled just above a low angle apron which you will definitely bounce off of if you blow the moves since your pro is low at this point.
We've climbed it a few times because I doubted my initial impressions but my wife and I both agree- it isn't a very good climb. There are much better places to plug gear at this grade around the canyons. Possibly the best climb at this grade is Mark's Crack a 5.8(-)/5.7 hand crack right of Whipping Post.
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