Classic line with the best cop-out factor in the universe. Chase the diagonaling pockets left of Bullet the Blue Sky for 20 ft, passing below the feet of the Virgin. Expect soild 5.11 climbing on shallow pockets until the line turns vertical at two-thirds height. More continuous edge and pocket climbing gains the anchor, but the difficulty still hangs in at mid to low 5.11 right to the anchor. As a cop-out, Weenie Way, is simply a brilliant climb and a terrific addition to the best sector of rock in the canyon. The cop-out is in providing a top-rope for the real Los Hermanos (5.12c) or at least a chance to pre-place the draws.
This route is absolutely sweet! There are some sloping huecos and then a huge jug right on the corner (basically right in the middle of the climb), just to give enough rest to finish off the route (some weird traversing sequences up to a killer little bit of finger crack). Get on it! Be sure to blow a kiss to the Virgin Mary....
It seems that the hanger for the third bolt is missing, which protects the crux of the traverse. A fall getting to the 4th bolt would certainly result in a groundfall. Bring a nut for the bolt or, better yet, bring a new hanger. I seem to remember the hanger missing when I was at Penitente 2 years ago.
I noticed this too! I was there in middle June and was bummed after returning from bailing on this route last summer and was stoked to conquer it the 2nd time around. Does Mr. D'Antonio know about this? And what is the usual procedure...to contact the routes original bolter, or just pop a new hanger on there? I'm not sure if there's etiquette or procedure for this type of thing...i.e. maybe a reason the hanger was removed? Oh well, if anyone knows or comes across this email me at chrishanson5@hotmail.com. thanks.
Someone has replaced the third hanger on this spectacular route.
By adampeters From: Golden, Colorado Nov 7, 2007 rating: 5.11c
Yeah, I was wondering if anyone found my nephew's school picture below this route last weekend? The picture means a lot to me and I would really like to get it back. Thanks.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
