Follow the main drainage that enters the canyon from the right at Captian America. As the drainage narrows down head for the huecoed wall at the end - this may entail scrambling around the streamlet that can run a bit of water in the spring. Excellent hueco climbing to a thin slab await. This line comes well recommended as a rationally bolted moderate on solid rock that provides a good a good introduction to pocket climbing.
Funny coincidence, I was just there this past weekend and we noticed an excellent bolted line on a cliff just behind the belay stance for HTWWW. It felt 11a-ish to me as well, with some nice powerful (relatively for penitente, at least) moves up two short steep faces, and a thin-feet diagonal rightward traverse connecting them. Recommended, but perhaps do two warmup laps on HTWWW before bearing down on this one's crimpers. Oh, and by the way, I thought HTWWW was an excellent warmup or easy-moderate lead (with stick clip for beginning leaders). Beautiful location, too, in a little winding side canyon with a porthole arch in the cliff above.
By courtney.vogt From: Frisco, Colorado Sep 18, 2006
"Heads up" - I thought the first bolt was WAY up there. Still, a fun climb all the way up.
I got a good black Powercam placement in a left-hand hueco from an easy low stance. That should CYA to nearly the first bolt. (but Camalots are too wide for those pockets).
One of the better 5.9 climbs in the canyon that, like most of them, was not bolted for a 5.9 leader. I guess it is incentive to step up to higher grades because 5.12 climbers on 5.12 climbs are apparently at greater risk than 5.9 climbers on 5.9 routes!
Maybe a little soft for 5.9 (actually rated 5.8+ in the Colorado guidebook). But that first bolt is a very long ways up there and it is not a gimmee to get there. Very fun climb.
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