Penitente Canyon Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 7,969 ft |
GPS: |
37.8429, -106.28469 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 405,641 total · 1,483/month |
Shared By: | Rog on Nov 6, 2001 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Penitente Canyon is a beautiful, small canyon on BLM lands located in the San Luis Valley - south central Colorado. The area is primarily a sport climbing destination with a few trad lines. The bouldering opportunities here are (I think) mostly undeveloped but almost limitless.
As per D'Antonio's guidebook (Falcon Publishing - Rock Climbing the San Luis Valley), the rock is a volcanic tuft. This translates into bulletproof rock with great friction. Many climbs utilize small crimps and edges, while others scale hueco-ridden walls. The trad lines follow rough cracks - bring plenty of tape.
From my experience, all bolted lines are well done, with good hardware and placements providing well-protected routes. The majority of routes are .10 & above, with very few moderates. With the excellent bolted protection, however, this is a nice place to push the grades.
Camping is on site, costs a nominal amount (the guidebook says it is free - this has changed!), and has standard BLM regulations. Per Jesse Morehouse: as of 2012, the site fee for single site is now $11 and the group rate is $20 with 3 group sites now. Water is provided down the road from the climbing / camping area (another recent development - follow the signs), and the nearest 'goods' can be found at the 'La Garita Cash Store'.
Please note that there are several distinct climbing areas other than Penitente Canyon, including the Rock Garden, Witches Canyon, and others. Some of these are on or near private property, so be sure to watch for & obey the signs.
I am tying not to ramble, but this place just rocks!!! - fun, fun, and a bit more fun.
Eds. Note, BLM Law Enforcement Ranger hand out $50 citations to people who had occupied a campsite without filling out the form and submitting the money, even at night!
Sept. 13-15, 2019 limited access - see the popup for details!
Getting There
October 13-15, 2023 limited access!
Per A Lee: there will be limited access October 13-15, 2023 for the: True Penitence Climbing Festival 2023. The festival will be reserving all campsites and parking lots at the main canyon on October 13th and 14th. On Saturday (10/14/23), a climbing competition will take place in the main canyon and Rock Garden. The canyon will be open to the public for day use, but please plan accordingly, as camping is not available without tickets and on-site parking will be highly restricted. The climbing competition on Saturday the 14th will be asking the general public to yield to all competition climbers, as competing climbers will be heavily using many of the routes in the canyon. Please consider climbing elsewhere during the festival if you don't want to participate. Tickets & more Info on www.slvclimb.org/fest.
Classic Climbing Routes at Penitente Canyon
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