Start out low on the right side of the arete, find the sweet spots, paste the feet and begin. Strenuous moves the whole way, continually just squeezing everything together. Eases up slightly toward the top, with a mild topout.
Location
Just down and right from Squirming Coil, there's a path that cuts down as you head up the trail.
Protection
A couple of pads, plus a good spotter would be nice on this one. If you blow it near the top, you might spin off onto the boulder to the left and have a fun slide down.
I am confused by this problem. The name is double arete so is it fair to assume the left arete is "on" for your left hand? I started the problem with both hands low on the right arete, then went really low with my left to a jug then on to the left arete and worked my left up the left arete and my right up the rigth arete . The confusion comes when doing the problem this way there is no way it is V5 or V6, am I doing it wrong or is the problem soft?
By darth jables From: Lakehood, CO Apr 17, 2009 rating: V5-6
You climb the boulder using compression moves on both aretes... The slab to the left is obviously off for feet.
I also felt it was very soft for a V6. Felt much closer to the V4+ to V5- range. My climbing partner felt it was much harder as his wingspan barely reaches both aretes. It could be a height dependent problem, I am 5'8" with a +3 ape index.
Said and G, I could see how it's probably a V5, the V4 confuses me. Perhaps since I originally did it in July with more than a few drinks in me it seemed harder, nevertheless, a good climb.
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