Vrainavore 

FA:  Bob Jasperson, Sergio Poyares, Alex Tinsley 2002 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 170 feet Views: 47 page views Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Aug 20, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Beginning the crack proper is difficult, and the g...

Description 

Vrainavore is a sustained gnarly crack climb on the right side of the Hollow Man dihedral. There are several hard sections with no particular crux. The Gillett guide shows the crux at the overlap near the top, but that didn't seem any harder than below, and perhaps more straightforward. Gear is excellent with perhaps only a little funk near the bottom where you enter the crack. Halfway up you can move right to the Handcrack-a-rete anchors for a rest or belay, or a few feet higher for gear. You could, at this point, continue up the arete to the ceiling to avoid the difficult upper corner.

Location 

On the right side of The Coliseum is a mossy obvious corner that is visible from the road. Four climbs start from here: Hollow Man is the crack on the left; Planetary Pull is the first crack on the right starting half way up; Vrainavore 10a is the main crack system on the right. Handcrack-a-rete is the crack system just right of the arete.

To descend, you can rap either the left or right side of the arete in two single-rope rappels. The right side has some rope hazards. The knots on both ends of our rope got stuck in the block at the tree at the base of P2 of Lost in Time.

Protection 

Cams to old #3.5 or new #4 Camalot (gray). Maybe doubles in the medium sizes. I used a few finger size nuts and cams. Two bolt anchor at the top with rings. I used the big cam at the overlap, but other, smaller gear is available there.