P1: The first pitch starts on the blunt arete to the right of the obvious large tree about 80ft up the wall. Place a small cam at the start and clip two bolts along the arete. Low angle climbing and one bolt leads to the tree belay. Let your partner lead this one. (5.9, 80ft)
P2: The money pitch.... Follow 8 bolts up the clean slab, which is only marred by a horizontal crack after the third bolt. (#4 Friend) The large cam is probably optional, since the climbing is easy/secure in this section. Small edges lead past a few more cruxes to the bolt anchors above Handcrack-A-rete. (5.10b, 80ft)
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO Mar 24, 2009 rating: 5.10+
The rock on this first pitch is definitely more friable than the second making for a not so nice P1. The second pitch is definitely the beauty. I made the mistake of letting my partner take this one and you would have thought the bolts were 20' apart (rather than 6') the way he whined.
By Bob Packwood From: Longtucky, CO Aug 2, 2009 rating: 5.10b
Indeed, this climb ranks up there with 'Panic' and 'Upside' as one of the top thin slab routes in the SSV.
No need to climb P1 of this, just rap in from Handcrack-A-Rete since you HAVE to do that climb if you're here.
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