Sunshine Dihedral 

After you clip the two bolts it is runout to the start of the dihedral. If you fall on this section, you will fall about 30 feet onto a ledge. Check the hand/foot holds carefully, one shifted as I got my weight on it. Don't fall. Sweet climb.

casey

Actually, there is a small crack maybe 5' up and left of the second bolt that will accept a small stopper or two. I think this will keep you from cratering, but it's still a bit run out before you hit the lower portion of the dihedral. Not falling is good advice ;-)

I looked carefully at the crack and decided it was not good enough to leave a piece in it. There are no solid placements that will stay put (the route wanders a little above there making it easier for the piece to wiggle loose). The crack if (I remember correctly) is roughly a horzontal (actually a diagonal up and right on a vertical face). Bad idea for a stopper placement. Just my opinion ...

I think the vertical crack I am referring to is actually intersects the horizontal crack you are talking about (think they are part of the same flake). It seemed like we had a solid small stopper placement there.

I believe you can actually see it in the picture of Sunshine Dihedral in the Hubbell guide book (pg 62 if you have it). Look directly below the small bush (kind of hard to see, almost center of photo) just to the right of the base of the dihedral, right of the climbers rope. (Of course the guy in the picture *really* ran it out, didn't bother clipping bolts, his first piece looks to be 40+ feet up....)

But in any case I do totally agree that it's still a run out to the base of the dihedral from that second bolt (even with a stopper placement above it), I should have noted that in the description, thanks for the feedback.

Somewhat reminiscent of Ruper's 1st pitch in Eldo but a mirror image and harder.

Felt hard for 10a. Today, my partner (rarely falls on 10s) took a whipper. Look for feet R at the crux.

The old piton is gone at the top! Easier than Upside.

One insecure move.

Correction: That was Rover's 1st pitch, not Ruper's. Getting old and ... I forgot.

Great route! I felt like the crux up off the sloping ledge was a real test of faith. Thin toes and awkward body position makes it a pump towards the end. I was pumped at the last 10 feet but the hold give just the relief for a successful top out! I clipped the two bolts in the begining of the route too and really didn't see how people get all worked up about the runout there. Easy climbing.

Best route at the crag. Really fun, wild moves out the overhang, with an exciting juggy topout. This thing has good jams, a fair # of feet, and at the top, 2 cracks to use (also, gear is great). My partner doesn't usually lead gear routes harder than 10-, and he had no problems leading this. I don't think I'd upgrade it.

5.10b seems about right. Protection is good - take a #4 Camalot or equivalent. No need for the pin to ever be replaced.

This is perhaps the most obvious route in the entire canyon when driving down the road. Well worth it with a moderate start but pumpy and sustained crux. The poison ivy bush to the left is very green and healthy this year. Fortunately you don't need to grab anything near it, but it is only about 1 foot away in one section.