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Upper Infirmary Slabs
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Admission Crack 
Cyberchondrial Paranoia 
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Little Flatiron Left [aka West Buttress] 
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Remission 

Admission Crack 

5.7

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 568 page views

Submitted By: Jim Cormier on Aug 1, 2001


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

This is a fantastic offwidth lead.


Protection 

Large cams up to #4 Camalot, some stoppers for crack on upper right wall. Route can be top roped from tree at the top.



Photos of Admission Crack Slideshow Add Photo
There are a couple of spots where you can step out of the crack onto the slab to take a break. You can also clip a couple of the Remission bolts if you are short of cams. Chuck Graves is visible at the top left TR'ing Remission on self belay.

There are a couple of spots where you can step out...

Using the slab you can avoid much of the thrutching.

Using the slab you can avoid much of the thrutchin...


Comments on Admission Crack Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 2, 2001

It is really pushing it to call this a 5.7, I thought more of a 5.5.. just my two cents.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 10, 2002

This is a fun crack - much easier than the face route to it's left. It's ridiculous to give them both a 5.7 rating!

By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 27, 2003
rating: 5.5

The only hard move is getting into the crack at the bottom. In most areas this would be 5.4 or under.

By retroClimber
Apr 17, 2006
rating: 5.7+

IMO the other comments about this route really sandbag it. Yeah, I'm not a great climber but I've been known to haul my ass up the occasional 5.10.

The East Slab of the Dome is 5.6. The last time I climbed the Wind Ridge on the Wind Tower (start from the tree, not direct) it was rated 5.6.

The first 40 feet of this route is WAY more difficult than any move on either of these routes. The first move is easily 5.7 plus and perhaps 5.8 when compared to the 5.8 routes at Mary's Lake in Estes or Dihedral Route on Duncans Ridge.

Also, this route really sucks I wouldn't give it a single star. It's off width, easily sucks your leg up to the knee forcing you in and out of the crack for each move. Its just a grunt. I bashed the s%^t out of my elbow on the dihedralish face to the right.

Don't bother with this route. The bolted routes here are much more enjoyable.