Richard Wright on Kemosabe - anyone want to pick u...
Description
This fun little route actually faces West and gets great sun. KeeMoSabe provides a nice warm up for the harder climbs on Scout Rock. The rock is overall good, but still sheds some surface debris. The crux is at the top and is harder if you are short. A thin crux can be had between bolts 3 and 4 by staying to the right.
Protection
QD only. This 70 ft route needs 8 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at top.
This was such a fun lead I can't even express it! Lots of cool moves to be had and very well protected. I especially liked the crux, belly friction is vital on that move...
Really fun route. The crux move at the top is a real knee scraper if you aren't tall enough to get the frictiony holds on the top of the slopey bulge which enables you to walk/smear your feet up. I never ran it smoothly but I will [definitely] return to practice. We are talking....you could belay out of your car...it is that close to the road.
By Matt Gates From: Pinewood Springs, CO Oct 30, 2006 rating: 5.9
Fun route. Think "smear" with the feet. Also, the quartz(?) block about half way up sounded pretty hollow. I would not recommened yarding on it. There are plenty of other hand/foot holds available at this point.
A very worthy route, thanks Richard! Can be climbed in a couple different ways but the easiest way up is around 9- in my book. If you're short like me you have one last thoughtful move to the anchors with the last bolt 3' or so below your toes.
FYI: The big, quartz block (mentioned by Matt) was removed this evening. I led the route and felt the block flex as I moved past it. In the interest of safety, I had my partner crow bar the block off the wall; it wasn't that difficult to remove. Use caution through this section in the near future -- it was pretty dark by the time we pried the block off, and though we think we got all the loose stuff out of there, it's possible some weak holds remain.