Located West of Lyons, the South Saint Vrain Canyon offers a considerable amount of climbing close to Boulder or to Longmont. As a granite canyon, many of the known routes in the SSV follow excellent crack systems on trad gear. Many of the newer lines have gone in as sport routes, on good faces or where the cracks are very short and intermittent. Routes can vary in length from half rope pitches to several rope length pitches. Granite quality is variable in the SSV. The best rock is well consolidated and featured with edges and flakes, while the worst is chossy and crystalline. Slab to vertical climbing is rather common on the older trad lines. However, many of the newer sport lines run through some big roof systems with steep the rule. Development of SSV sport climbing started many years ago with the Monkey Skull and The Fang, where Mark Rolofson and his associates have put up some very difficult climbs. Rock in the SSV seems to face in just about all directions, so it has been possible to climb here throughout the year. The best climbing is to be had in the summer and fall when temperatures are less comfortable further East or South.
Getting There
The South Saint Vrain Canyon can be approached from Boulder North along route 36. This will take you to the intersection with route 66 one mile East of Lyons. From Longmont, simply take route 66 West to the town of Lyons. At the intersection of routes 66 and 36, head West into Lyons and to the main intersection that forks North to Estes Park on highway 36 or South to Estes Park via the SSV canyon and highway 7. Set the odometer from this intersection; climbing in the SSV begins at The Scout Rock 3.1 miles upstream on highway 7.
Upside The Cranium is the best of the lines on the Monkey Skull. It begins just right of the main trad dihedral on greyish, sub-vertical rock. The route begins to steepen as you approach bolt 4 and finishes up just about vertical. No one move is all that difficult, and most moves are 5.10- until near the last bolt where a long reach on thin but good edges delivers the crux (5.10c). Worth a pair of stars for the good rock, the continuity, and the ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Also note: Rattlesnakes, Ticks, Mountain Lions, Bighorn Sheep, Loose Rock, Ton's of Lichen, Sketchy Gear, Lightning, Flash Floods, Hail, Blizzards, Steep Hillsides with tons of weeds, Cactus, Fast Water, Thin Ice, and Hunters who'll shoot anything that isn't wearing orange (you may be a target!). Wear a helmet and be careful out there! -thudgel@aol.com
The routes are difficult to find and the rock is poor. Got the worst-ever case of poison ivy and my partner broke his ankle on the approach; rattle snakes near the trail. The locals all seem to be gun-toating rednecks. Definately not worth the drive; Boulder Canyon and Eldo are far better bets.
My name is Sergio Poyares and I am from Brazil. I used to live and climbing in Boulder for two years (1998/1999).I climbed in South Saint Vrain Canyon a couples of weeks a go(yes 2002) in a place called Lost Buttress. I did four greats news routes. Two bolteds (5.10b and 5.8+)two pitches and two trads 2 pitches (5.8 and 5.10a). Probabily the 5.10a trad was the FA on lead. The SSVC is an excelent climb area and no chalk prints there, yet!
Sergio, If you'd like assistence to photo document your FA I'd be happy to join up with you and get you proper credit. One of my climbing partners spent time in Brazil and speaks Portuguese. I see that Lost Buttress is not listed at this site and it would be neat to chisel your name, so to speak, on your FA and add it to this signficant database documenting climbs of the Front Range. If you are still in the USA we should get record your FA and name it, maybe something to do with Brazil, it always kicks butt in worlds soccer, or something like that.
wow, when I went there they had restrooms, a fee lemonade stand, cleared paths directly to the base of the walls and little signs for the routes at the base! I never saw any rattle snakes, though I did see a friendly little groundhog eat a garter snake and crawl back into a hole below a plaque honoring his committment to defending climbers from the oh-so-wild SSV. Oh yeah, and don't forget, they even give you a bazooka at the lemonade stand to fend off those mountain lions, which turned out to be the neighborhood cat lady's only family. I do appreciate the bazooka, however, due to the fact that those cats do get kinda ornery sometimes, come looking for a leg to rub ass on. I'd rather blow 'em up than have 'em rub ass on my shins!
I've heard rumors of a new guide for SSV, any truth? When will it be out? I've been climbing SSV for a year now, and it appears to have a lot of new-route potential.
Wanna know what I've heard? Rumor has it that the new guide won't list established routes (other than the author's new creations). It's main focus will be to describe _new route potential_ for those who don't seem to have enough time to go look around on their own.........Hmmm, an idea .........WAKE UP!!
i was wondering if anyone new of any new routes on the PIZ. i was told of some new bolted lines.. is this true? if so any info would be great!! looking forward to the new guide!!
Subj: South St. Vrain bolting epidemic II Date: 5/6/2003 2:47:06 PM Mountain Daylight Time From: Tbliffel To: thumphrey@lowealpine.com CC: Tbliffel
To whoever added bolts to:
The SSV routes Full Nelson Riley (Dire spire) and Where's My Toothpick ( the small technical turret across the highway from Sentinal rock ): I will be removing the first bolt on your 'new' bolted line on Dire Spire to the right of Full Nelson Riley, as it is placed on the initial moves of my route. Furthermore, how can you possibly justify pounding (3) pitons as FIXED GEAR into cracks and seams which accept gear easily on your "new" line? Some of us don't need a clip every eight feet on 5.8 slab- if you can't lead it on the perfectly good natural gear placements, top rope it. You just bolted a line which can be and has been lead on gear.I will also be removing the bolt at the crux of the aforementioned turret's SW face, as it was led (by me) without fixed pro before your bolt was placed, and can be protected easily with a small cam or tri-cam. . I have lately noticed bolted road-cut in the SSV. This is truly pathetic. I have climbed some of these new childproof bolt-ladders now popping up in the canyon. Many are on what can only be described as piss-poor rock. Who put in the bolts on the pile left of bullshit rock? Friends of mine tried it and pulled off a block the size of a microwave low on the "route". Are you even leading these routes, whoever you are? Do you realize that many of these lines you are bolting were passed over long ago as being too chossy or friable to be worthwhile? Much of the rock in the Vrain is marginal quality, and you really have to look around for the good stuff. You are bolting lines which are awfully hard to be proud of. Just remember that we are in Boulder County and should always bear in mind that ANY suspected FFA (or FA or whatever it is you do) is very likely to have been climbed before. If you're in the Vrain, it has likely been climbed by people who do not rely on fixed pro. Placing pro is a skill which is integral to our sport, and eliminating potential clean gear placements by bashing pins into them is incredibly selfish and shows contempt for the skills of trad leaders. Keep your silly bolts off of my routes.
Hi Bernard- Thanks for your input. I would distinguish "gashuffer" from the other crap being bolted along the road in several ways. Have you climbed it? The rock is very good, first of all, and only three bolts were needed over 85' of climbing. Most of the route accepts gear. If you consider this route to be road cut, then eveything else in the Narrows is as well. The route would clearly be x-rated without the fixed pro. The route is alone on its own part of the wall, and follows a natural line. I think it is a stretch to lump this line among the true road cut routes which Alvino is apparently bolting. Guided by Voices is on high-quality, [absolutely] natural rock as you know, Bernard, and has no bolts. I am not shocked to learn of Alvino's manufacturing in the Vrain, but I am of course appalled. Where is the outrage here, folks? Do you think this would go unnoticed/unprotested in other major Boulder areas? Choss is being bolted, pins are being left in place where good gear placements exist, bolts are being ADDED to lines which have been led repeatedly on gear, and holds are being MANUFACTURED. I will probably not remove the fixed pro which has popped up on my lines, but if any more goes in, it will be removed. (Got your attention, though, didn't I?) No, a bolt war probably would not be good, but the threat of one might slow the frenzied bolting down. I have always regretted placing the first bolt on the route "bullshit detector" after the fact because it is kind of close to a gear placement. I have often thought of removing it, and I just may. I, too, bolt in the Vrain, but only as a LAST [RESORT], when neither I nor anyone I know can lead the route without risking serious injury or death. The latest batch of closely bolted Vrain lines are in a whole different league, as anyone who has climbed them knows. No respect for bold leaders, lots of bad rock, no taste, and no sense of history. We of course need a complete guidebook such that we all know what is what. Perhaps those of us who are compulsive drillers could wait until the book comes out or check with Bernard before they drill. Is anyone climbing in the Vrain? (I know you are, Bernard- your new routes on Acrophile are cool) Has anyone tried ground-upping some of these easier lines? It is one of our sport's great adventures; placing pro is a lot easier than placing bolts. Keep your drills off of the south narrows massif.(home of GBV and a couple of Bernard's lines). The naturally protectable 5.11 project there has been climbed free but remains to be led. It is run-out, desperate and hard to protect. May it stay [that] way forever.
Howdy Bernard- You are correct that there are bolted anchors on Guided by Voices- what I meant is that there is no fixed pro for the leader. The anchor on the face is to avoid the really bad rope drag involved in doing our line in one pitch; the one at the top is to acccess the route during high water. As far as I know it is only reachable via a rap during spring runoff (although Mark Howe established a variation after we put up GBV which maybe would work during high water). I think that your comparison of GBV and Gashuffer and "Turd World" is invalid, but I respect your opinion. The former are nice lines, and the latter is simply embarrassing, in my opinion. Alvino has put up great lines- why is he doing this? I wasn't entirely disappointed with Scout rock until I saw the epoxy and led some of the ball-bearing rock there. Some folks probably love it there, and that's cool.
Anybody know the name / grade of the new bolted route on the Monkey Skull? It's between Hollow Be Thy Name and Sunshine Dihedral and has red bolt hangers.
Has anyone climbed those upper routes on the Piz Badille? From the ground, I can't tell if they are total piles or beautiful routes. I'm going to head up there this month, but it would be nice to know what I am getting into!
Go to this web site to join a discussion group, I am looking to build a group of people who either like or are "sentenced" to climb in the SSV canyon excessively.
We did Crooked Cross yesterday and noticed that there was a new looking (and very long) bolted line to the right of I Spy. Anyone know the name / grade of this route?
Bernard - thanks once again for the beta. Fogline is the route we were interested in, looks like a sweet line from the ground. We'll probably go check it out tonight.
Thumbs up for Fogline - very fun, great route for moderate leaders. 5.10a seems like a fair rating, most of it felt 5.9ish, lots of good rest stances to plot out your next moves.
Alvino Pon Is over bolting low quality lines and is doing a great diservice to the canyon and his name. I hope he reads this and stops putting up bolted garbage.
thanks jack, couldn't agree more. the vrain is a special place and we should try to keep it that way. if anyone is really interested in chipping/ bolting with roadside access, i can recommend several pristine bridges and overpasses right here in longmont. (very close to many pubs). -chuckphlegm-
Bernard: I did a fair amount of bolting in SSV. However I did not bolt any routes. I bolted the anchors for top roping and rappelling. I put many of the upper anchors in at Scout Rock and was doing so at least 7-8 years ago. I used this area for instructing my scout troop and also for teaching several people how to aid climb and learn pitoncraft (Most of the aid lines were right of the road and there are some bolts at the top of these) I did other similar anchors at Lower Infirmary (Here it was to add to single bolt top anchors), The Spire, and Roadside Rock.If you need any other info let me know.
The Cheat (Cheet?) grass is back, and has gone to seed. Bring Throwaway socks, and shoes that you don't care too much about. Poison Ivy is in full bloom as well.Ahhhhhh. The Vrain......
In June 2004 Ron Olsen and I performed the following anchor upgrades.
-added quick links to top of first pitch of Comanche Warrior on Scout Rock-removed smash link and added quick links to anchor on Alley Cat Street-replaced first bolt (in original hole) of Cornered on Scout Rock-removed smash link and added quick links to the anchor of Upside the Cranium on the Monkey Skull-added quick links to anchor of the arete route left of Sunshine Dihedral on the Monkey Skulk
This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). Visit their website at www.safeclimbing.org. They appreciate your support.
Reading above: it's clear that there are some folk out there that care deeply about the SSV. They care so deeply that a few people have take ownership of some of the rocks and several of the routes. They should, it's a great place. I've been enjoying the SSV since the early 90's. As long as we can continue to play well with others I'm sure we can enjoy it for a few more decades to come.
Where should a bolt go? Why wasn't a bolt put somewhere else? Is it really 5.9+? How hard is a 5.9+? Why are people still using plated steel hardware? Haven't these plated steel users ever been on a climb that was established more than 20 years ago?
Yep, I own a drill and yes I have bolted in the SSV. There is little published information about the SSV. Who had what first accent, when, and with whom? With the exception of the FEW climbs mentioned in a few guidebooks, nobody knows who's done what where. Maybe I had the first accent and not Mr. Highorse. Is Mr. Highorse certain he had the first accent.? Why did Mr. Highorse run out such a long unprotected section? Was he climbing with Mr. Dumass that day?
I don't think I've bolted over anyone else's lines. I have added alternate finishes. I don't bolt cracks or choss. If someone wants to waste their dollar by bolting choss, have at it. For those that don't like climbing chossy or rotten rock, don't climb the chossy bolted routes. It would be a good idea to stay away from the desert, too.
One of the things that draws me to the SSV is it's proximity to Boulder Canyon and the City of Boulder. It's just far enough away that most of the malignant attitudes of the battling rock gods haven't made it that far north. That is until I read the string above.
I understand that if you become controversial in Boulder Canyon it can result in getting beat with an ice axe. Let's not let this attitude spread to the SSV. If you want to climb in an area where every bolt has to be approved by a committee, there are places on the Front Range. Look south! If you want to cry because someone made "your" climb safer, look west. If you want to appreciate the time, money and effort that fellow climbers have invested, and not worry about the minutia found at "other" climbing areas, I'll see you in the SSV.
By brent armstrong From: Closer to RR than the Strip Jun 24, 2005
Is this most recent AC comment from Alvino or what?
I've never known Bernard to fart too much, maybe the case is different with Mr. Meyer, but I don't know him...or does that fancy word mean something else?
A friend and I [received] an email from Bernard a couple weeks ago saying the guidebook was going well. His only problem is that he and his partners keep finding more cool routes! Let's hope it can come out sooner than later.... we're itchin' to lift the lid on the new treasure trove.... Thanks for all your work, Bernard! Keep it up!
SSV has some great routes for the FR. Is there some poison ivy? Sure, but if you don't know how to identify poison ivy, well. . . . Heya Bernard, I'm looking forward to that guide! There are many routes that are not shown in my Hubbel guide!
I am up in the Allenspark, CO area and looking for some good local bouldering.... A V6/7 boulder project would be awesome.... I have found some marked up projects in the Ironclads/Ironsides area, but if there is more out there, I would be desperate to know.... If any info please email me back at radrocklgr@yahoo.com...Thanks!
The new book is here! We should have it up on the website any day (www.sharpendbooks.com). Neptune's and Boulder Mountaineering currently have it in stock.
We also have autographed copies by Bernard just in time for Christmas. Go to www.sharpendbooks.com and put "signed" in the note section of the order form. Cheers!
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