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Grotto Wall
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666 variation on "Necronomicom" 
Back Scratcher Start 
Before There Were Nine 
Coldfusion 
Cryogenics 
Engagement, The 
Ineditable, The 
Lower Plaque Nose 
One for the Road 
Scene of the Crime 
Stand By Your Van 
Twin Cracks 
Victims of Fashion 
YQ 

One for the Road 

5.10c

   

FA: M. Baker, B. Perlmutter 1991
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 59 page views

Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Jul 6, 2008


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Luke on TR at the second bolt.


Description 

This is a nice, pumpy line just right of the first pitch of Twin Cracks. Start on Twin Cracks or climb the unprotected and 5.9ish slot to the right. Place a piece or two in a flake and move right to the first bolt. A couple of difficult moves, including some stemming, lead to a layback and a difficult clip of the last bolt. Another 20' or so of easier unprotected or gear-protected climbing leads to the anchors.


Protection 

4 bolts plus the anchors plus gear. I placed 5 pieces of gear, 2 before the first bolt and 3 after the last bolt, including a nut, 3 finger-sized cams, and a yellow/#2 Camalot. The guidebook says bring only a 0.5 cam, in which case you want to place that before the first bolt.


Location 

Start as for Twin Cracks, then move right below the cracks to the first bolt.