On the far right (climbers right) side of the second buttress there is a distinct nearly straight shot crack system that goes through a small roof and blanks out on a superb slab. Both pitches are challenging with the 2nd pitch through the roof being the actual crux. The 1st pitch starts out somewhat awkwardly in a acute angle slot.It quickly becomes funtastic climbing to a belay 15' below the little roof at a big traversing ledge. The belay anchor can be set to the right or the left of the route. I personally prefer the climbers left side as the ledge is a bit more comfortable. The next pitch is so fine! 15' of super crack climbing leads to a roof with great moves and wild positioning. Now, swallow hard and head up the headwall slab for the rest of the pitch. This stretch feels way out there but is really moderate. The climbing eases way up but so does the pro. It is a long run to the trees on top so you probably wont take this stretch for granted but there is no reason to get hurt. Descend by hiking around back to the right and down.
Protection
As per most Taylor Canyon routes A single rack from small wires to a 2.5 or 3 Cam. This route takes pro nicely.
By phil broscovak From: Boo-older, Co. Jun 23, 2005 rating: 5.10a
There are indeed two areas of the globe that were once part of the same paleocontinent. One area refered to as Gondwana is related to the current Indian sub continent. The other area known to this day as Gondwona [the New Zealand region is called Gwondona]. No jacked up spelling here. Thanx George for referencing the Red Rocks web link as a clarification.
Both belays have bolted anchors which are used for the airy (1 60m barely makes it) rappel off of this fantastic route. The second 5.8 pitch is as good as any pitch I have ever done.
What do you remember Phil? I know I did the 1st pitch of this in about '79 with that British climber that lived in Crested Butte (can't remember his name). The whole gang was working on this, but I don't remember who actually got the F.A. I think the Dawson brothers even spent some time on it. What does Leo's book say?
By phil broscovak From: Boo-older, Co. Feb 2, 2009 rating: 5.10a
Unfortunately Johnny Rotten can't answer questions. But Tom and Jimmy can. Jimmy told me he had worked on the FA with Rosholt. It is extremely likely Tom was there on the sharp end.
This route can be done in one long pitch. Instead of stepping left to the firs belay continue straight up the corner then face climb up and right to a rusty set of chains. One double length rappel gets you down.
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