The Law of Gravity in effect. One of Chucks Big Sw...
Description
When looking at the Big Roof there is a prominent crack through the roof that is shapped like a bombay Vee slot. That is 'Welcome to China' 5.12. 15 feet to the right is an astounding S shapped thin crack that splits the entire roof. This route is 'Double time at Sue's Place'. Start from under the Big Roof and ascend either 'Bronco Billy's' or 'Guanos Dias' to the base of the roof. Set what ever gear you feel comfortable with, grab the first holds, pick up your feet and go Michaelangello go! This route doesn't let up for a second until you get past the lip. The first ascent was done in the early eighties over a six day effort and in good style. All gear was clean and placed on lead and the rope was pulled between efforts.
The first ascent required several BIG swings over six days and seven cases of Cooper's Stout. Chuck and I had a bet. Whoever got established over the lip first would get a case of Cooper's from the other. Since we thought it would go any day we always brought the case along for the ride. After the high piece was clipped there was nothing to do but gulp and go for it. One thing led to another and before sun down we would need another case. In retrospect we might have been able to do the1st in fewer (hiccup)days but no one ever accused us of being sober thinkers. Chuck is an amazing and powerfull musician and a pretty good climber too. He gets all the credit for the drive and vision of this stellar test piece. More than anything my primary contribution was to be quick enough to reel in enough rope to keep chucks hurtling body and unprotected skull from smacking into the Guanos Dias arete, sometimes by inches! *note: the pics below were taken by Gary Skipp, I am the freek in the geek suit.
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