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The Big Roof
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Bronco Billy's 
Double Time at Sue's Place 
Guanos Dios 
Welcome to China 

Double Time at Sue's Place 

5.12

   

FA: Chuck Grossman & Phil Broscovak
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 1,462 page views

Submitted By: phil broscovak on May 30, 2005


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The Law of Gravity in effect. One of Chucks Big Sw...


Description 

When looking at the Big Roof there is a prominent crack through the roof that is shapped like a bombay Vee slot. That is 'Welcome to China' 5.12. 15 feet to the right is an astounding S shapped thin crack that splits the entire roof. This route is 'Double time at Sue's Place'. Start from under the Big Roof and ascend either 'Bronco Billy's' or 'Guanos Dias' to the base of the roof. Set what ever gear you feel comfortable with, grab the first holds, pick up your feet and go Michaelangello go! This route doesn't let up for a second until you get past the lip. The first ascent was done in the early eighties over a six day effort and in good style. All gear was clean and placed on lead and the rope was pulled between efforts.


Protection 

Mostly intricate small wired stoppers.



Photos of Double Time at Sue's Place Slideshow Add Photo
1/3 of the way through the roof and the last pro

1/3 of the way through the roof and the last pro

Chuck during the first ascent of the other big roof 5.12 "Welcome to China." I'll post more latter. I suppose someone ought to do a separate route description.

Chuck during the first ascent of the other big roo...

Me on "China" 1981. Sorry for the quality, but it was ruined either by or in the mail from a writer of a book on late seventies early eighties climbing in Colorado. The route is considered one of the first 5.12s on the western slope.

Me on "China" 1981. Sorry for the quality, but it ...

Allen, my quick stab at making it better.

Allen, my quick stab at making it better.

Welcome to China. Phil Broskovak? John Rosholt? So many years ago and so many people tried the monster. Maybe Phil knows who it is. Maybe Chuck remembers?

Welcome to China. Phil Broskovak? John Rosholt? So...

In the thick of it.

In the thick of it.


Comments on Double Time at Sue's Place Add Comment
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By phil broscovak
From: Boo-older, Co.
May 30, 2005

The first ascent required several BIG swings over six days and seven cases of Cooper's Stout. Chuck and I had a bet. Whoever got established over the lip first would get a case of Cooper's from the other. Since we thought it would go any day we always brought the case along for the ride. After the high piece was clipped there was nothing to do but gulp and go for it. One thing led to another and before sun down we would need another case. In retrospect we might have been able to do the1st in fewer (hiccup)days but no one ever accused us of being sober thinkers. Chuck is an amazing and powerfull musician and a pretty good climber too. He gets all the credit for the drive and vision of this stellar test piece. More than anything my primary contribution was to be quick enough to reel in enough rope to keep chucks hurtling body and unprotected skull from smacking into the Guanos Dias arete, sometimes by inches! *note: the pics below were taken by Gary Skipp, I am the freek in the geek suit.

By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
May 30, 2005

Great photos phil!

By Will Anglin
From: Gunnison, CO
Apr 20, 2008
rating: 5.12a/b

I don't feel like "Bad Ass" is a strong enough adjective for the first ascent of this thing...You all were nuts!

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Apr 20, 2008

A badge of honor!

By phil broscovak
From: Boo-older, Co.
Apr 21, 2008

Better than all the scars of shame I possess.

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jun 4, 2009

We did the first ascent of "Welcome to China" using the same boozy tactics the year prior. I actually took Chuck out to dinner (big deal for a 17 year old) the night he first reached the lip. I got the lip the next day and he took me out. Anyhow I'd explain the name of Double time but this is a family website. Use your imagination.

By YDPL8S
Jun 4, 2009

So Allen, it sounds like your name should be up there on the banner of Welcome to China, along with Chuck's, for the FA.

And maybe add a little to the description.